Strange acting starter

2. I then connected the ground cable to one of the long bolts that runs the length of the starter body. In other words, the -ve batt.post was now connected to the starter post and the +ve batt. ground post was connected to the long bolt on the starter. The starter turned,ok.

3. I know this is not the way the starter should be energized.

4. Do I have some sort of short in the starter or would anyone have a suggestion?

Thanks for your help.
Reid

What you describe in item 2) would indicate that the starter is functioning correctly, whether on or off the tractor. Connect -ve ("hot") to the single terminal on the starter, and +ve ("ground") to the starter farme, and if the motor is OK, it will turn over.

If it turned at all, I doubt you have a short in the motor. Most likely a brush is stuck in its holder and not making good contact, or is glazed over. If you have it out, start by removing the brush holder assembly, on the front end of the motor when it's mounted in the tractor. Put a couple of aligning amrks on the edge of the brush holder and the case of the starter with a rpick-punch so you know how to align it when it goes back together. Clean it up real good, make sure the brushes are free and in good shape, and clean out the slots between the commutator sections carefully. You might also carefully buff up the commutator with some 1000-grit emery cloth. Keep track of any shims and thrust washers that are on the end of the motor shaft when you remove the brush assembly, and put all back together as it came apart. Starter motor bearings have a very hard life and will thank you for a cleaning and some oil, but keep the oil out of the brush assembly. A trick to reassembly is to wire the brushes back in their holders using a very fine copper wire - pull some electrical cable apart to get it if you don't have a roll of something suitable. You'll be able to slide the brush holder right back on, and once it's all bolted back together, reach in with your forceps or needle-nose pliers and snap off the wires and pull them out. Saves a lot of chipped brushes and cussing.

HTH

llater,

llamas

I fixed a real rusty generator brush holder problem with sanding and anti-sieze.
Wiped till it was just a film inside. I used conductive A-S. Helps with the condensate and ocasional rain.
bd

Many anti-sieze compounds contain metallic particles (copper or silver) as well as an oil base, and I wouldn't want that migrating onto the commutator. Besides, the brushes are a graphitie composition and should lubricate themselves OK if the brushholders are smooth and in good shape.

But - like I said - if it worked good for you? It's like using anti-sieze in brake assemblies - a little in the right places does a lot of good.

llater,

llamas