Engine Rebuild Question

And so it goes with the 9N engine rebuild.

I visited my old tractor fix it guy in Maine yesterday to discuss rebuilding my 9N engine.

The price to do it is scary...minimum 2,000.00-2,500.00 possibly more depending if it goes easy, or if more needs to be done beyond the usual unknowns that creep into the process.

I have basic mechanical ability. I do not have an array of mechanics tools. I have the tools to take apart the basics, but to get in and disassemble an engine, rebuild it, and more importantly the knowledge (been reading some of the N-Newsletter articles on rebuilding engines) there is no way I can anticipate what to do and how to do it.

Given all of that, can it be done? Can a guy like me rebuild a 9N engine over next winter?

I just can't see putting in 2k-2.5k in the tractor because there is no way I'll recover that cost if I need to sell it. Not on top of what I have put into it already.

Should I just do it? and figure it out as I go? and is the risk worth the knowledge gained? and money saved? 9N'er

p.s. I do want the tractor to be in excellent mechanical condition. That's my preference...to do it right and to be thorough when all is said and done.

later,dave

All you need is a good work place, an extra set of hands for some of the heavy work, some basic tools, time, and cerveza (that's beer for all you Yanks);-)

Arne

You can do it yourself without out a lot of special tools. You will have to have a machine shop do some of the work: removing old sleeves and installing the new sleeves, mic'ing the crank (and turning if needed), resizing the rods, resurfacing the flywheel (if needed), etc. The only special tool you will need is a ring squeezer to compress the new ring when inserting them into the cylinders. You will need a floor jack, and some sort of hoist. Other than that, standard tools. An engine stand is also good to use but not necessary.

The steps are:

- Remove hood and gas tank, and raditor.
- Jack up front end and block up under transmission.
- Remove front axle and roll aside.
- Drain oil.
- Remove generator, distributor and wires from block.
- Disconnect oil line to oil gauge and linkage to governor.
- I like to remove head, manifold, water pump, governor, oil filter, oil pan, and pistons at this point to lighten the block before spliting. Be sure to keep rod caps with the same pistons and pointing in the same direction.
- Split engine from transmission.
- Remove cluth and flywheel from crank.
- Remove crank from block.
- Remove anything else still on the block.
- Remove valves and cam.
- You can now take the block to a machine shop. There are a number of thing they can do for you if you want: remove old sleeves, boil out the block, mic and turn crank, resize rods, install new sleeves, etc.
- After you get things back from the machine shop and get the new parts, you are ready to start reassembling the engine. Just reverse the process.

I keep a box of zip lock bags in the garage. As I take bolts and other small pieces off, I label a bag and put the parts in the bag so I know where to put them back.

Hope this helps, however I'm sure I forgot something,
Danny

bd

Crate it up and send it to me and pay the frieght and I will rebuild it for $1000.00.

I would think the freight would not be over $300.00 both ways.

That guy just doesn't need the work and just figures that if he gets it he will make a killing and if he doesn't he won't be lost anything.

And I definetely don't need the work unless I put on a second shift!!! :O)

My two oldest grand boys have about quit coming to visit me now! 13 and 17 years old. They can put a ZANE THANG together with no supervision now!