I've got a 2N that I'm restoring, and after arguing for 2 days with my valves, I consulted the archives of this wonderful resource. I then tried just about everything I found on the subject...bent screwdrivers, heat, PB blaster, prying, big hammer, bigger hammer...but to no avail.So, I sat down and devised what I think is a fairly straight forward method that guarantees I won't crack the block or break other things. I took a few 1/4" flat washers (7, to be exact). The ID measured .320" and the OD .740". Then I cut them from the OD and tangent with the ID, so that they were "U" shaped. I then taped them together (this was, after all, just a prototype). Now, turn the crank until a valve is at the top of it's lift...and slide this stack of washers into the port and up around the valve stem. There's a "ring" shaped feature on the stem that prevents the valve guide from going all the way to the valve head. This stack of washers will fit between that ring and the top of the guide. Snug the washers up close to the stem. Rotate the crank until the cam is at the bottom of the stroke. Now...put a block of wood on the valve head and tap it down. It worked nicely...even on the REALLY stuck intakes. Remove the retainer, slide that valve out the top, remove the washers and move on to the next valve. For the valves that use a 1 piece guide, you need a slightly larger washer...the stems are .341" dia vs. .311" on my machine. "N" couraged,
2NTim
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