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Primer Question

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Paul R. in Mich

04-19-2002 07:15:59




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Did a Site search, can't really find a definitive answer...after you've cleaned all the old paint off the 8N engine/chassis, do you prime it? Hi-temp primer on the engine? I'm cleanin' off the old stuff, but see no evidence of original primer. I've used acid-prep on bare sheet metal before priming, and I'll use it on the cast, but what about primer?

O.T., saw a N for sale down the road, glanced at it, saw HORIZONTAL grill bars, all gray paint. Shock my monkey, I thought I had a shot at an early 9N, maybe with aluminum!! Went back asap, pulled up next to it and saw 8N wheels (huh?), and a strange OHV engine....awww, it's a Fergie! They need to put a big label on them things so you can see it from the road. These rapid mood swings are bad for my health.

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Al English

04-19-2002 13:56:54




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 Re: Primer Question in reply to Paul R. in Mich., 04-19-2002 07:15:59  
Hi Paul,

While some paints are better for direct application than others, all the paints I know of adhere better to primer than to bare metal. And, a good primer adheres to bare metal better than finish/top-coat. Although I doubt any of the tractor was primed originally, I would spend the extra time, effort, and expense to do it. Although adequate precautions must be used, an epoxy primer would be best. Dupont and PPG both offer excellent epoxy primers. Not only is epoxy primer extremely durable and waterproof, it is also capable of withstanding the engine’s heat better than anything else. If it is topcoated within the time specified sanding is not required.

On the acid prep..... it is worth doing, but follow the instructions. I have seen problems from people not reading and/or following the directions. Good luck...Al English

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Gr8Grndaddys8N

04-20-2002 06:37:33




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 Re: Re: Primer Question in reply to Al English, 04-19-2002 13:56:54  
Where do you get the acid prep and what is it called? Are there any brands that are better than others? What exactly does it do and how do you use it?
Thanks!



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Al English

04-20-2002 07:35:29




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 Re: Re: Re: Primer Question in reply to Gr8Grndaddys8N, 04-20-2002 06:37:33  
The active ingredient is phosphoric acid. Because of the extra time required, and problems from not using it as directed, it's not being used to the degree it once was. But properly done, it's still worth doing. An automotive or industrial paint supplier will either have it, or will be able to get it. If you really want to get carried away there is also a follow-up treatment for iron and steel that deposits a layer of corrosion-proof zinc phosphate on the surface. This is a coating that is used by manufacturers and in industry. Anyone who can supply the acid etch/cleaner can also provide this.

Many people are using etching primers. These are not as effective as a manual pre-treatment, but it's better than nothing. The biggest problem with etching primer is people assuming it eliminates the need for good preparation and cleanliness. Good luck...Al English

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Don, Luling LA

04-19-2002 17:58:08




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 Re: Re: Primer Question in reply to Al English, 04-19-2002 13:56:54  
I agree with Al on the epoxy primers. They are great, you can even put body work over the top of them, meaning bondo or other body fillers. They do cost some money though, but are tough as heck. I have had great luck with the PPG DP-40 product.



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Barnsstormer

04-19-2002 09:34:57




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 Re: Primer Question in reply to Paul R. in Mich., 04-19-2002 07:15:59  
After a few times stopping myself, I have a trained eye for Ferguson. Nice, but not me.
Paul, where are you in Michigan? I'm in Ypsilanti.



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Paul R.

04-19-2002 12:07:44




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 Re: Re: Primer Question in reply to Barnsstormer, 04-19-2002 09:34:57  
I'm up in Pinckney, north-west of Ann Arbor about 20 miles. Thinking of going to a few tractor shows this year, like that one in Dexter, May 31/June 1. That's about half way for you and me, you gonna be there? We'll swap a few lies...



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Barnstormer

04-19-2002 13:30:20




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 Re: Re: Re: Primer Question in reply to Paul R., 04-19-2002 12:07:44  
I try to make the Hudson Mills show every year. I haven't finalized my schedule yet. If you see Marv Baumann there, say hi and tell him I'm in the area. He knows me.
There is a small show tomorrow in Milan at Phillips. I'm meeting a friend for breakfast and going to see what there is. Usually mostly locals bringing out the toys for the beginning of the summer.



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Dell (WA)

04-19-2002 09:08:06




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 Re: Primer Question in reply to Paul R. in Mich., 04-19-2002 07:15:59  
Paul..... ....most primers are solids heavy so you can block sand for smooth finish on sheetmetal. Most are not looking for mirror finish on castiron. The etch is good idea. Just use high quality vermillion red paint. Red is very fade succeptable, quality counts..... ....Dell



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Paul R.

04-19-2002 12:17:02




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 Re: Re: Primer Question in reply to Dell (WA), 04-19-2002 09:08:06  
Thanks Dell. I was always taught by my father (an unrepentant Farmall man), that the primer helped the color coat bond to bare metal, thus adding tremendously to the durability of the paint job. But, if it'll stick without it, I'll gladly forego its use. Have you tried the "rediscovered original-code" Tisco Ford gray and red? From what I can find of the old paint on my 8N, it's a darn close match. What do you think of it?

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Dell (WA)

04-20-2002 11:15:56




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 Re: Re: Re: Primer Question in reply to Paul R., 04-19-2002 12:17:02  
Paul..... ....really have no opinion on Tisco's new 8N color paints.

My take on "official color" paints. Doesn't really matter what the color is unless you are trying to match a repair patch. And I'd bet that even at the Ford factory, color varied from day to day, and week to week, and month to month. And ontop of it all, paint fades, so todays fresh paint job is going to be different color 10-20 yrs later anyway, unless you never let it see sunlight (grin).

But I do believe that there is differences in paint quality and you get what you pay for (to a certain degree).

If I were painting my 8N, I'd probably use a red tinted epoxy etching primer for better color stability and add UL inhibitor to the vermillion red top coat..... ...Dell

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