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Coil...Again

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Alan

07-22-2002 07:45:34

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I have a 52 8n , original 6 volt system no ballast resistor....Carb was recently (last year) rebuilt and has run well....Early this season she wouldn't start....Did normal tune up new plugs , points , cond and since I never replaced the coil (it appeared to be in bad shape) figured while I am at it may as well.....I did notice that the coil specifically said 12 Volt ....Questioned the parts guy....Said it will work for 6 and 12 volt....Still wouldn't start ....Checked and found no sparkies....Problem was the connection from the coil thru the distributor body...Took it all apart cleaned and put back together and she started right up....Done.....Did not get to do much work in spring as it was very wet...Finally got to do some work and after awhile working under load she would sputter and a short while after noticing the sputtering she would just stop COLD....Fart around a little looking for the problem and tried it again....She would start right up and work for awhile longer.....This went on until she quit one time and now she won't start at all....I had enough time to check for fuel and spark....I opened the bottom drain plug on the carb and let the fuel run out and it came out in a stream even after the bowl was empty...So I think fuel is OK....Pulled the coil wire from the Dist and held it near ground and cranked the engine.....NO SPARKIES AGAIN.....That was all the time I had before it got dark..... .I don't know the condition of the points etc as it was dark by now....The one thing I did notice that on the coil it was printed....USE WITH EXTERNAL RESISTOR OR PRIMARY RESISTANCE WIRE.....I do not have a resitor in the circut....Do I need one ....Has anyone seen this on there coil....Did I fry the coil , points or more....I did read the archives and I know I could measure some stuff but I don't live where my tractor is so I got to be prepared when I go to fix it...As usual ANY OPINIONS greatly appreciated...Thanks...Alan

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Dell (WA)

07-22-2002 16:31:11

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Re: Coil...Again in reply to Alan, 07-22-2002 07:45:34

Alan..... ....heres another case of "one-size-fits-all".

Trust me on this, your new coil is basically an 8 volt coil and will work well on 6 volts but won't last in a 12 volt system WITHOUT a resistor to drop the 12 volts to 8 volts. THEREFORE the CAUTION lable on the coil, saying it needs a resistor. AND NO, you didn't fry your points or new coil.

To a real ignition mechanic, he already knows and understands. To the newbie shadetree mechanic, he don't know and don't understand. (its not your fault..... .really) But to the stocking parts sales person, it just means 1-less part to carry on the inventory shelf and less overhead expenses.

If I were to try an trouble shoot this puppie, I'd by-pass the ignition switch 'cuz thats what I think is your problem..... ..... .Dell

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Wayne

07-22-2002 12:21:56

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Re: Coil...Again in reply to Alan, 07-22-2002 07:45:34

If it is a 12v coil, 6v won't hurt it with or without a resistor. It would give less secondary output voltage to fire the plugs however on 6v. Again, this should not have hurt the points. There is some danger of burning out the coil since it has finer wire inside. Check if you have 12v on both sides of the coil with the points open. This would mean the coil is probobly ok. You could be suffering from low secondary voltage with the coil you have and maybe a poor ign switch (high resistance there also). Recheck points opening and closing properly and also the condenser in the dist. When you crank the engine, you should see the ammeter move as the points open and close. The sputtering before stopping sounds like fuel starvation too. Are you sure the fuel is getting thru?

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duey in MN

07-22-2002 11:29:03

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Re: Coil...Again in reply to Alan, 07-22-2002 07:45:34

Trouble shooting is twice as hard without using a voltmeter.... but it is possible the key switch is toast. A temporary wire from the battery to the coil (or across the switch) should tell you fairly easy. (It's always handy to keep a wire nearby with little alligator clips.) If the ammeter shows a discharge with the jumper hooked up but not when the key is 'ON', it would seem like a bad key switch. Post what you find, thanks.

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ED-IL

07-22-2002 08:00:09

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Re: Coil...Again in reply to Alan, 07-22-2002 07:45:34

I think you need to get the ballast resistor back in line. I have a 1946 2N that had the resistor bypassed when I bought it. I also had to buy a new coil after three months.

I like the standard 6 volt system because the parts are simple to find. I can go to TSC or FARM and FLEET or NAPA and ask for the 6 volt coil and get it.

Unfortunately with all the different 12 volt conversions out there, different coils have been manufactured to try and meet the need of the different wiring.

Simple rule - 6 volt coil should get 3.2 volts with points closed.

My advice is put the resistor back in line and make sure all the wiring connections are clean, bright, and tight. Also, be prepared to do some troubleshooting since the resistor might have been removed to cure a problem with the electrical.

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