(Photo) Limiter Chain On Brush Hog

Just finished putting a new King Kutter brush hog on the N. Lift arm pins on the mower are so high that I needed another place to tie limiter chain on. Used existing holes in lower front of mower. Welded 3/8 x 2 tabs with 5/8" hole on the end of 3/8" chains. One short, one long with grab hook for adjustment. Tied slack tail of chain back so it couldn't come unhooked when I raise it. Hook is almost hidden behind black brace in center of photo.

See also chain top link.

Both worked good. Wish I had something else to mow.

As for the chain top link, that's all I use with my mower. A while back, I was using a solid top link and attemped to make a shortcut across a small ravine. As the tractor went up one side of the ravine, the wheel on the mower hit the ground on the back side of the ravine and the mower rode up and the pto shaft bottomed out against the mower deck,"mower not running", I almost couldn't back out.

Shortly after that I started to use a chain about four times bigger than yours. It has a pear shaped ring on one end and a hook on the other. I hook the small end of the ring to the middle hole on the toplink bracket on the tractor and then run the chain around the toplink pin on the mower and then about halfway back to the tractor. I can adjust the length by moving the hook.

I mow some uneven ground and let the wheel on the mower ride on the ground. This lets the mower follow the contour of the ground independent of the tractor. I run the chain a couple of links looser than level which lets the mower tilt downward slightly in back on uneven ground and I get a more even cut.

When I'm ready to transport the mower, I move the hook and take the slack out of the chain which lets the mower raise up level. I guess I could invent some type of telescoping toplink which would let the mower tilt up a certain amount before bottoming out. This would still let the mower follow the contour of the ground and still be safe. What do you think about that concept everyone?

I know, I know, not every farmer gets caught in the PTO, gets run through the bailer, get's caught in the running Silo unloader, or flips the tractor on himself, it just seems that way from reading the paper.

They make a set of limiter chains with a keyhole setup on top, which allows you to adjust the chain length one link at a time. I am sure Stevens or TSC has them. You also need a longer toplink pin, as the "keyholes" go on the outside of the link attachment point. I personally have a pair on the scrap pile...ever since I got a Zane Thang, I just don't use them. With a "Zane Thang", you just..... ."SET IT and FORGET IT".

But you do need a toplink. Having a Toplink turns your bushhog into a wheelie bar. Without it, there is nothing stopping your tractor from flipping over on you.....get it on there.

Good Luck
Steve

Now about your chain toplink, get RID of it, Safety hazard is main thing, like mentioned, it can rotate and hit you where the solid toplink limits its rotation. Good luck
Tom-Pa

Please put a real solid top link

I lost one of my best friends few years ago
he has a chain in place of toplink
the mower hits a stump the rear of the mower lifts
caused PTO shaft to break and hit him in the back
when still turing by the mower inertia.

Safety first

Joe Ferguson

Chris