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Hey Dell: I Enjoyed Your Painting Technique!!!

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Arthur Brestlin

10-11-2002 20:01:24

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Dell: I plan to use your combination of brush-on, roll-on and rattlecan application of paint. It sounds simple and great! I thought that adding hardener would only make the surface scratch resistant. Do you feel it will tighten up the overspray finnish (rattlecan) enough to be worth the cost and effort. I assume you add the hardener to the undercoat from the quart cans. Is ther a particular brand of hardener that you would reccomend? Thanks for a great post, I always appreciate your input!!

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T 'N Tx

10-12-2002 12:24:48

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Re: Hey Dell: I Enjoyed Your Painting Technique!!! in reply to Arthur Brestlin, 10-11-2002 20:01:24

Ok, you all have answered most of my questions... one more though. How exactly are you preparing the tractor before painting. Pressure wash, sanding, degreaser? ....none or all of the above?
Also, my N leaks at least a little oil & fluid at numerous places. Do I need to replace all of these gaskets or are there any other tricks?

Dell & the rest of you have already taught me more about N's than I thought I would ever need to know so don't stop now.
Thanks to each of you.
T N'Tx

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Dell (WA)

10-12-2002 14:14:13

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Re: Re: Hey Dell: I Enjoyed Your Painting Technique!!! in reply to T 'N Tx, 10-12-2002 12:24:48

T n T..... ..yes, degreese, pressure wash, de-rust by sanding and priming with rust converter. Then epoxy primer. Most of the time, you just leave the leaking gaskets alone (unless really bad) on a working tractor. Show tractor, different rules. But even then, new shinny paint makes a worker look like show tractor..... ..Dell

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Dell (WA)

10-11-2002 21:28:04

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Re: Hey Dell: I Enjoyed Your Painting Technique!!! in reply to Arthur Brestlin, 10-11-2002 20:01:24

Arthur..... .....I'd use a hardner on the big quart cans of un-thined paint, red or gray. And since red is really an eazy faider, some UV protect is good too. Type of hardner depends upon chemical type of paint and paint manufacturer. Ask your local auto-paint supplier. And it will bleed thru to your rattlecan flash.

Heres the deal about bush/roller painting. NO 2ND COATS REQD.

When you use a sprayer, you have to thin the paint so it sprays, then you have to make multiple coats to get addequate coverage. And in trying to get addequate coverage, yer gonna get runs and orange peel. All that stuff kinda levels out when using brush/roller 'cuz its thicker.

The flash from a rattlecan provides the visual smoothness of a regular spray job. You'll want that specially for looking with pride across your flat sheetmetal hood. You probably won't notice it on castiron or even fenders..... ...Dell

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Mr.T

10-12-2002 09:32:36

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Re: Re: Hey Dell: I Enjoyed Your Painting Technique!!! in reply to Dell (WA), 10-11-2002 21:28:04

Dell,
I have a few questions if you have the time.
1. How long do you let the roller coat dry before you apply the next one with a spray gun or rattle can?
2. If the class period is over before a spray coat can be applied do you sand the first coat the next day?
3. If you sand what grit do you use? Wet or dry?
Thanks Mr.T

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Dell (WA)

10-12-2002 11:26:29

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Re: Re: Re: Hey Dell: I Enjoyed Your Painting Technique!!! in reply to Mr.T, 10-12-2002 09:32:36

Mr T..... .....since you've most likely removed the sheetmetal to rollerpaint it, it should only take you about 5 mins to roll it. A quick flashmist with a rattlecan on the hood should be made in less than 30 mins (probably 15 mins) for shiny perfection. If its a working tractor, you might even be satisfied as rolled. NO between coat sanding required.

You do understand the reason for roller painting? 1 coat of un-thinned paint (with hardner) vs 3-4 coats of thinned spraypaint with runs and orangepeels. You don't have to be a expert to rollerpaint.

You do understand the reason for brush painting the castiron, don't you? The natural roughness of castiron tends to hide the brushmarks. And you can gett the brush into nicks and crannys that you can't get the roller into. You don't have to be an expert to brushpaint castiron since all your sheetmetal been removed..... ...Dell

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Mr.T

10-12-2002 15:28:56

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Re: Re: Re: Re: Hey Dell: I Enjoyed Your Painting Technique!!! in reply to Dell (WA), 10-12-2002 11:26:29

Dell,
Thanks for the info. WIll be painting Our drag trucks roll cage using your method.

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But..Dennis N Tx.

10-11-2002 20:19:30

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Re: Hey Dell: I Enjoyed Your Painting Technique!!! in reply to Arthur Brestlin, 10-11-2002 20:01:24

I'd like to know how to paint the FORD scrips on the hood and fenders. Ain't got the hands for that.
Is this were the wemens come in?

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Fast Ed Ohio

10-11-2002 21:41:25

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Re: Re: Hey Dell: I Enjoyed Your Painting Technique!!! in reply to But..Dennis N Tx., 10-11-2002 20:19:30

A few years back I used a tinners brushs ( flat 1/2 inch wide stiff brush) turned out pretty good, you need a very steady hand , I think they sell some stick on stuff that looks close to original .

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Dell (WA)

10-11-2002 21:39:31

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Re: Re: Hey Dell: I Enjoyed Your Painting Technique!!! in reply to But..Dennis N Tx., 10-11-2002 20:19:30

Dennis..... ...use a BIG arched felt pad and just kinda roll it once across the raised Ford script. Use a thick paint almost like a paste. Art stores have 'em. Sign painter suppliers also. Red is called "Vermillion". I suppect anything close ain't gonna be too noticeable.

I sure wouldn't mucka round trying to hand paint itt myself. You can alway "hire" it done. Signpainters, HotRod customizers.

There are now Ford script decals and paint masks available too. About $12, your call..... .....Dell

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