Welcome! Please use the navigational links to explore our website.
PartsASAP LogoCompany Logo Auction Link (800) 853-2651

Shop Now

   Allis Chalmers Case Farmall IH Ford 8N,9N,2N Ford
   Ferguson John Deere Massey Ferguson Minn. Moline Oliver

Discussion Forum
:

More info on engine turn over

Welcome Guest, Log in or Register
Author 
Alex Dula

12-18-2000 09:00:59




Report to Moderator

Thanks for all the ideas and help. I put all new parts inside the engine. As I put each piston in I turned it over with the crank. Each piston made it harder to turn over as I torqued the rod nuts. After the forth piston it was very hard but I could turn it over with much difficulty. I used 30 wt oil mixed with STP at a 50-50 mix. I have used this before in rebuilding an aircraft engine with good success. The main bearings are stampted std. with a new crank. The bearing caps are on the way I took them off so i do not think they are on backwards. As I tightened the main bearing bolts I could not turn it over. I loosened the bolts and I could barely turn it over. I will mike the crank tonight when I get home. It just feels like a very tight engine with all the new parts in there, but I am concerned I might have something wrong innthe engine. Thanks for all your responses. It is a great resource to have your help.
Thanks
Alex Dula

[Log in to Reply]   [No Email]
Fred OH

12-19-2000 07:17:52




Report to Moderator
 Re: More info on engine turn over in reply to Alex Dula, 12-18-2000 09:00:59  
Well, I've read over the comments on your problem and nobody has come up with the correct solution so far. If you will take her back down and clean that damn STP out of it and use the 30wt or the breakin lube like you're supposed to, I think you'll find that your problems are over if your bearing clearances are within spec. I have actually seen a bearing smoke from using STP for something that it is not designed for. Hope I don't shock your modesty but that stuff isn't meant for this even though it looks like it would be a super lube. Too high of a coefficient of friction at that viscosity. L8R----Fred OH

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Alex Dula

12-20-2000 05:18:27




Report to Moderator
 Re: Re: More info on engine turn over in reply to Fred OH, 12-19-2000 07:17:52  
Hi Fred OH,
Thanks for your suggestion about getting rid of the STP. I thought that an STP and oil mix might be good for the initial lubrication as I am putting the engine together. I used to live in Ohio, live in TX now. Alex



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
raytasch

12-18-2000 11:09:21




Report to Moderator
 Re: More info on engine turn over in reply to Alex Dula, 12-18-2000 09:00:59  
Alex, I do not know how you are turning the engine but with a breaker bar on the front crank nut the engine should turn with some drag but you should not have difficulty. My guess that a fully assembled N engine, sans compression, should probably require no more than 30-40 ft lbs to turn over if lubricated well. I usually start with the crank, torque it down and make sure it is free. At this point you should be able to turn the crank and cam freely from the rod throws. Drift the crank front and rear before final touque on the center cap. Some of your drag at this point will be the seal, otherwise the crank should turn freely. At this point I install the piston and rod assemblies makeing sure the engine is free after each installation. This way if you have a problem it is evident at that point. With the installation of each piston you will pick up additional drag. Make sure you have ample ring end gap as per ring installation instruction. The notch in the piston should go to the front of the engine and the oil hole in the rod should go toward the cam, Check your manual on the oil holes as it has been a while. The notches on the rods and caps go to the same side. Back check your work and let us know. Got to go eat. ray

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Alex Dula

12-18-2000 11:25:29




Report to Moderator
 Re: Re: More info on engine turn over in reply to raytasch, 12-18-2000 11:09:21  
Hi raytasch,
Thanks for the thoughts. I am turning the engine over by pushing on the crank counterweights (I think that is what they are called). I put the crank in first and did not torque down the main bearings. I then put one piston at a time in and tightened but did not torque down the rod nuts until I had all 4 pistons installed. Then I tightened all the main bearings bolts to 40 ft-lbs (final torque is 75-80 ft-lbs in the manual)and then tried to turn it and I could not. I will put on the front crank nut and then use a wrench to try and turn it over. Thanks again for yours and others help.
Alex

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
albe

12-18-2000 10:14:28




Report to Moderator
 Re: More info on engine turn over in reply to Alex Dula, 12-18-2000 09:00:59  
Check to make sure that the main bearing caps are in on the correct journal and the arrows (if you have them) are facing the right direction. These are "line-bored" and if not installed correctly would cause the problems you are experiencing. The rod caps are also "direction" sensitive. Just a thought! albe



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Dell (WA)

12-18-2000 09:22:29




Report to Moderator
 Re: More info on engine turn over in reply to Alex Dula, 12-18-2000 09:00:59  
Alex..... ...On my way home, I would definately stop and get some "plasti-gage" from some auto machine shop and recheck all bearing clearances, one at time. Plasti-gage doen't cost that much. I too would be concerned about the effort to turn over the engine.

I once "rebuilt" a "Citrone" ID-19, a front wheel drive French car imported in the 50's. It had a hydraulic spring system and a brake spot in the floor. I had "hung" on a wall peg a crankshaft "shim" so I wouldn't forget it. (I did) And when I torqued the crankshaft bearings, I had to convert neuton/meters to ft/lbs from the original French language manual. The crank would not turn. Took the bearings apart and plasti-gaged 'em and had to convert to "silly-milly meters". Then I spotted this big washer hanging on the wall..... Put it on the nose of the crank and torqued the crank nut and all of a sudden the crank freely turned. Weerd..... ...Dell

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
[Options]  [Printer Friendly]  [Posting Help]  [Return to Forum]   [Log in to Reply]

Hop to:


TRACTOR PARTS TRACTOR MANUALS
We sell tractor parts!  We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]

Home  |  Forums


Copyright © 1997-2023 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy

TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters

Website Accessibility Policy