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Crankshaft

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Pat Woodruff

12-28-2002 21:04:37

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I had the bore thrust alignment done on the block and installed a rebuilt crank and new bearings, everything mikes out ok but it seem like the crank turns hard at 90 pound of torque. I have .004 of end play. It takes about 50 inch pounds or so of torque to turn the crank and about 25 inch pounds to maintain. Everything is super clean, I ran brushes thru the oil gallerys and cleaned everything with laquer thinner and brake cleaner. I lubed everything with Clevite Cam Lube assembly grease. Is this normal or do I have a problem?

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JACK NC

12-29-2002 12:55:39

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Re: Crankshaft in reply to Pat Woodruff, 12-28-2002 21:04:37

PAT I'M NOT A PRO WHEN IT COMES TO ENGINES AND SOME OF THE SMARTER GUYS MIGHT DISSAGREE WITH ME BUT HERE'S WHAT I DO. I INSTALL THE CRANK, TIGHTEN BOLTS TO ABOUT 25 FT. LBS. THEN I TAKE A LARGE PIECE OF ALUMINUM BARSTOCK ABOUT 1" IN DIAMETER AND HIT THE CRANK RIGHT BESIDE THE BEARINGS IN A HORIZONTAL DIRECTION FROM RIGHT TO LEFT OF BLOCK , DO IT ON BOTH SIDES ON ALL BEARINGS, WHAT THIS DOES IS LINE UP THE BEARING IN THE CAP TO THE ONE IN THE BLOCK, YOU SEE THE 8N DOESN'T HAVE A STEP MACHINED IN THE BLOCK TO LINE UP CAP LIKE A FORD OR CHEVY V8. TRY IT WITHOUT SEALS FIRST AND SEE IF THIS HELPS. IT ALWAYS MADE A DIFFERENCE TO ME THOUGH I HAVEN'T BUILT MANY 8N'S AND DON'T CLAIM TO BE AN EXPERT.HOPE THIS HELPS. PS DON'T FORGET TO TORQUE BEARINGS TO SPEC.

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Pat Woodruff

12-29-2002 07:03:43

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Re: Crankshaft in reply to Pat Woodruff, 12-28-2002 21:04:37

Thanks guys. I did check as the bearings went in and I started my torque seguence out at 30 ft pounds and it turned easily, went to 50 and same thing, went to 70 and noticed a little more effort was required to turn it by hand and than went to the final 90 pounds. I don't have the rope seals in yet or the pistons. I did not use plastiguage instead used a micrometer. Everything is well within tolerances listed in the book. I've never rebuilt a Ford before and it just seemed it should turn easier. I'll pull things apart and verify that Don sent me the right shells but I'm pretty certain he did. I am using the Clevite cam lub and that is pretty thick stuff. Maybe that is the problem or maybe I don't have a problem at all.

Pat

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ZANE

12-29-2002 06:35:11

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Re: Crankshaft in reply to Pat Woodruff, 12-28-2002 21:04:37

The N engine is not like most more modern engine because of the rope seals. They can cause a lot of drag before the engine is run.

Like the man said you should turn the engine after each bearing is installed to make sure that there is no excessive binding after each installation.

Speaking of the way a crankshaft is ground. If the crankshaft main journals are reground and the machinest used the method of centering the mains on the seal running surface the crank will be centered on the seal when the main is ground. If the mains are badly worn most machinest will center the crank to be reground to the main bearing journal without regard for the seal running surface. When this is done and the main was off center of the original outside diameter and it reground this way the results will be that the seal running surface will be eccentric and consequently it will act as a sort of cam and wobble in the seal causing it to leak.

If the main bearing journals are worn down as much as .020 on one side and not the other and then the crank must be ground to the center of what is left or the crank discarded because the mains only come in up to .030 and the if it were centered on the seal running surface so it would be centered the mains would have to be grond over .040 to clear.

Most cranks that have the mains ground on the N are not centered on the seal surface. That's why so many of them leak.

Zane

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Les, TN

12-29-2002 06:40:21

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Re: Re: Crankshaft in reply to ZANE, 12-29-2002 06:35:11

Makes sense Zane. So, why don't they turn the seal surface too?�and get everything on the centerline? Wouldn't take much and seems like that'd be a good thing ta do. Any undersize would be taken up by the seal being packed back in there.

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Joel (SoCal '44's)

12-29-2002 06:27:44

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Re: Crankshaft in reply to Pat Woodruff, 12-28-2002 21:04:37

I had a similar issue... found out that I needed to SOAK the rope seals in oil 2 hours prior to install.

Hope this helps.

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Rich, NJ

12-29-2002 06:10:29

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Re: Crankshaft in reply to Pat Woodruff, 12-28-2002 21:04:37

Call me crazy, But I do a "Turn Test" with each bearing as I install them. Why? I once had a piece of lint from a rag I was wiping everything with, get between the cap and the shell. The couple of thousandths that it caused the bearing to press in on the journal was enough to bind the engine. Years ago I got to like STP for assembly jobs and thats what I use on all new parts going in.
Spin your engine over with starter only, when your done assembling it to make sure you have oil pressure before starting. Rich

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simonmeridew

12-29-2002 03:33:07

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Re: Crankshaft in reply to Pat Woodruff, 12-28-2002 21:04:37

My crank turned hard when I assembled the mains, rings, and rod bearings 1 month ago. Didn't have anyway to measure force but it turned. I figured it was what it was going to be. Once I got the head on and the rest of it assembled and timed, it started and ran well. Tremendous low end torque, smooth transition.
Question: How were your front and rear crankshaft seals before the rebuild? Mine were fine, no leaks. Call me crazy but if the crank seals leak there's some eccentric force that causes it to pound the seals down(or up) enough to leak. Like a bent crank. Conversely if no crank seal leaks, crank is not bent. As they say, your mileage may vary
simonmeridew

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