Carry-All...build out.

I bought a Carry-All for my 8Ns and I am ready to add some lumber to it for a floor and a back.

I am planning using pressure treated lumber 2xs. Someone once went into detail how they did there's, told how wide and how high the back was and if they used 2x8's or 2x10's. It sounded like that set up worked well and I might want to try the same thing.

Anybody got any insight or care to share how they did their's.

It's just the regular carry-all by King Kutter.

Thanks guys.

-Sal

In fact I even made one for myself before I purchased a trailer. I just used two 3 inch diameter by 6 feet steel tubing that I found at then scrap yard, drilled and tapped the tube for a 3/4 bolt to rest against the axle housing and used a old pallet to be screwed into the tubing for a floor. I used the same system to rest the tubing to the drawbar set-up. This worked good for getting firewood out of tight places.

My carry-all frame came drilled for 1/2 bolts. (I used 1/2 zink galvanized carrage bolts) While the pre-drilled hole didn't exactly center on each plank, its close enuff.

For the back, I used 2X6 X 42", with 1-1/2" air gap. (used a spare 2 bye as a spacer)

For the deck or bottom, I used 2X8 X 72" with 1-1/2" air gap except at the corner bend where I used a 2X6.

I originally use 2X10 X 42" on the bottom with NO airgap. While it matched the back, most everything I was carrying hung off the sides and slid off or bounced around. I was carrying 8' feeders or 7' fence posts, so 6' bottom really works for me. I haven't had anything fall thru the 1-1/2" airgap.

I found an old wire bicycle basket that I fastened to the top of the back to carry small things, including some tightening straps..... ..Dell