OT Barn Construction

I have been saving up to build another barn. I finally got to the point where I have enough saved to start planning what I want and maybe build later this year

I know the size I want, but I am not sure on which construction method to go with.

I am thinking of either a pole barn style or going with a poured concrete stem wall and build a post and beam off that or 2x6 stick frame.

My current barn is a big old timber frame that is great. This new one will be 30x40 with a metal roof and heated floor. Going for 12-14'high ceiling inside.

I am leaning towards the 2x6 walls at this time, since they can be insulated well and the building could be utilized for many things down the road.

Any big drawbacks on pole barns, I am thinking insulating them and such won't result in an interior that is as 'finished' looking as regular stick framing.

-Sal

I built a new building a couple of years ago, with many of the same requirements as you. I chose to go with a 36'x53'Morton building with 12' ceilings primarily because of the insulation package they offered. With 7"6" between main wall beams they are able to put 9" thick bats that have no thermal interuption for nearly 8'across. Then they put 14" of blown-in into the ceiling. I heat the place with in-floor radiant heat (which I installed). In the coldest days of winter hear in Iowa it cost about $30 per month to heat to 68 degrees. I zoned the front half and the back half of the shop seperately. I chose to go for the ribbed metal interior because I like the clean look it offers. One thing the salesman talked me into is using sound absorbing panels on the walls 4' down form the ceiling. They work GREAT! I've been in steel interior building where the echo was so bad it's hard to talk. These panels really work.

I wanted absolute protection from rodents, so I built the building on 2' high concrete knee walls (higher concrete walls where the building is built into a hill). I love having concrete all the way around. Plus, I've found that I can mount some things to the concrete wall without having to drill into the floor and risk damage to the heat tubing. I'll send a photo of my vise stand if your interested.

As far as radiant heat... It's the greatest. I use a 75,000 BTU boiler, but think I could almost heat the place with a residential water heater. If you can sweat copper and run some gas pipe you can install radiant. The key is getting a plumbing house to help you source all the components. And make sure to use a high quality PEX pipe in the floor. I'll post a picture of the heating plant if I get a chance to snap one soon. In a building with high ceilings it's great because you don't have all the heated air at the ceiling. Plus when you open the overhead doors you don't loose all the heat.

One more thing to consider is beefing up the concrete floor a bit. For not much more cost I went for a 7-bag mix (they call it Interstate mix), plus added fibermesh (shredded fiberglass strands) into the mix for strength and crack control. So with the radiant floor system it layers like this: gravel, vapor barrier, 2" rigid foam insulation, 6"x6" weld wire (to tie the PEX tubing to), PEX tubing 1' on center (2' on center is ok also), 1/2" rebar 2' on center, then 4" of beefed up concrete. Good help the person who has to tear it out someday! But with heavy equipment I don't worry about the floor.

Good luck on your project!

As an engineered material, SIPs must be installed according to the manufacturer's instructions, and I've not personally seen any instructions supporting "stacked wall panels".

Stacking SIPs seems like a great way to get an economical, high-insulation-value wall, but only for timber frame or post frame infill, and not for a load-bearing wall. In this application, there is a SIP product that might work that has OSB on the outside and drywall on the inside, possibly saving another construction step.

One way to make the most of SIPs for a 12 foot shop wall would be to use a 4 foot "pony wall" of concrete or concrete blocks, and then put a standard 8 foot SIP wall on top of that. The lower wall section has enhanced resistance to fire, water, and mechanical damage, useful properties for a shop or barn. The upper SIP wall retains its desirable structural, economic, and insulative properties.

I have looked into the radiant floor heating and I don't see any problem in doing it myself. I will have a crew pour the slab though.

Here is a good link to learn about installation.

Here in Syracuse area there are a number of plumbing/heating supply houses that will take your bldg plans and design a radiant system for you at no charge as long as you buy the supplies from them. My neighbor works at one and says it is really simple and from what he has shown me I agree. Also, these places have the installation information from the manufacturer that they will give you...I learned a lot this way.

I like being able to design multiple zones and that there is the ability for snow melt area's in front of doors.

As for kit's on barns, I have not looked at them yet. I am usually short on time for a project this big so I will have the barn built. There are some good barn and garage builders around here and I really like Woodford Brothers a lot...might go with them.

Keep in touch.

-Sal

It's pretty easy construction (though I'm taking forever), you put flush plates in the slab/footing and then weld posts to that, then put rafters on that. Cut to fit and paint to match, as they say in the auto industry.

Theoretically it can be cheaper than wood, but then there are things that you can do with steel that you can't do (economically) with wood (i.e. taller ceilings and wider spans.)