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Sleeve Puller Tool

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Blake (TX)

02-06-2003 12:29:22




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This is my first attempt to post a picture. JIC, the pictures are stored in the Part & Pieces section of this site.

This is the sleeve puller my friend and I made on a lathe to remove and install the sleeves on my 8N.

Smaller diameter is 3.18" to fit in sleeve bore. Step is 3.35" to catch the bottom/top of the sleeve without rubbing the block bore. These dimensions are for thick wall (.090) sleeves.

Blake '52 8N512510
Rosharon, TX

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RoN of ohio

02-06-2003 14:00:58




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 Re: Sleeve Puller Tool in reply to Blake (TX), 02-06-2003 12:29:22  
Although my present plans do not include re-sleeving my engine, it looks like it would be much easier to install pistons and rings in the sleeves while the sleeve is on the work table, and then installing the sleeves, pistons, and rings as a unit afterwords with some sort of push pole. What do you think? Ron



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scott

02-09-2003 07:33:58




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 Re: Re: Sleeve Puller Tool in reply to RoN of ohio, 02-06-2003 14:00:58  
Ron; I'd install the sleeves and then measure the piston to bore clearance. You have no guarantee that the block is round, straight or the same size in all four holes never mind the right size. Too risky for me to chance.



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Blake (TX)

02-06-2003 14:31:13




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 Re: Re: Sleeve Puller Tool in reply to RoN of ohio, 02-06-2003 14:00:58  
It seems to me that it would be very hard to keep the piston and rings in place while the whole sleeve assembly is pushed into the block. You'd also be likely to disturb the ones already installed while working on the next one, etc.

I'd consider installing piston and rings in a sleeve in a block on an engine stand to be alot easier to work with than a loose sleeve on a bench. It's much more stable. You can also rotate the whole assembly around to whatever angle suits you.

Blake '52 8N512510
Rosharon, TX

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Blake (TX)

02-06-2003 12:30:28




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 Re: Sleeve Puller Tool in reply to Blake (TX), 02-06-2003 12:29:22  
third party image

Here's a view of the whole thing.

Blake '52 8N512510



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Jim(S.E. MI.)

02-06-2003 12:41:53




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 Re: Re: Sleeve Puller Tool in reply to Blake (TX), 02-06-2003 12:30:28  
Blake;
I made the same thing except mine is about 7" long and made from steel with a threaded hole in the top and bottom.
I used threaded rod to grip the plug and tap the sleeves into the block after freezing them in the deepfreeze. This approach works great!
Jim



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Blake (TX)

02-06-2003 12:45:33




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 Re: Re: Re: Sleeve Puller Tool in reply to Jim(S.E. MI.), 02-06-2003 12:41:53  
I used a hydraulic press, as you see in the picture. It's one of those cheapo harbor freight jobs that I've had for years. The time spent on the lathe was well worth it. I had all four sleeves out in just a matter of minutes with no unnecessary stress on the block, the sleeves, or me.

Blake '52 8N512510



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Jim(S.E. MI.)

02-06-2003 16:32:15




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Sleeve Puller Tool in reply to Blake (TX), 02-06-2003 12:45:33  
Yes Blake;
Changing the sleeves is very simple if you take the time to think it through and follow the proper procedure.
I remember when I was living in Lima Ohio and working at the Ford engine plant there. We repaired the damaged valve seats on brand new engine blocks by boring out seat area (which was normally induction heat treated cast iron)and replacing with hardened steel seats that we kept in a home type deepfreeze. Of course that was back in the 70's when repair of brand new engines was common to prevent the financial loss of scrapping them out. We would accumulate blocks with damaged valve seats and sometimes repair 100 or so at a time reboring and replacing 1 to 3-4 valve seats with the process I mentioned.
I was there for 6 years and over that time we had no record of any failures from this repair.
We also did an impregnation process with a product that would seal up porosity. We would submerge the block in the hot liquid, create a vacuum in the tank which caused the air to leave the block and float to the surface of the liquid as bubbles, and then after about a minute take the tank to atmospheric pressure which caused the vacuum in the cavities to suck the liquid into them where it would harden in the absence of air and seal the porosity. All the manufacturers were doing things like this. Even Briggs and Stratton, Tecumseh all of them.
They still do these things with Locktite and use the vacuum process to get the material to flow into these cavities.... ..Rambling..... ..... ..... .....

Jim

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