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O.T. Lumber Strength/Span

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Sal

02-15-2003 12:02:59

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Hello all,

Looking to build a hunting camp this spring. Going to build it 16'x24'. I want to put a sleeping/loft in it so I will be using rafters instead of trusses.

I found a chart for rafter sizing but I haven't found anything for the bottom stretcher to tie the rafter tail together and also support the floor of a loft.

Being that it is 16' across I can get 2x lumber that long...just not sure what size to use 2x8 or 2x10.

I know there isn't a big difference in cost but I am interested in learning what it will take to do this safely.

Thanks.

-Sal

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Duke

02-18-2003 03:57:51

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Re: O.T. Lumber Strength/Span in reply to Sal, 02-15-2003 12:02:59

I would put a beam (two 2x10) parrallel to the bearing walls down the center of the loft. Then you can either allow your loft joists to rest on the beam, or use joist hangers so they finish flush on top. I would space the joists 16" on center and nail them to the walls next to the rafters.

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02-16-2003 15:14:38

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Re: O.T. Lumber Strength/Span in reply to Sal, 02-15-2003 12:02:59

I'd use engineered lumber. You can get an equivalent clear-span wood I-beam that will carry more load and is lighter and easier to transport and handle on the job site. It may cost slightly more, but when the benefits are weighed, the cost is negligible.

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simonmeridew

02-15-2003 20:33:44

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Re: O.T. Lumber Strength/Span in reply to Sal, 02-15-2003 12:02:59

Sal
Just a quick thought on the kids using the hunting camp. When they're up at camp they're not out driving around or party hopping or bar hopping or whatever. You know just where they are and that they're safe. Let 'em get it out of their system in a safe place, the more isolated camp is the better.
simonmeridew

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Sal

02-16-2003 09:28:28

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Re: Re: O.T. Lumber Strength/Span in reply to simonmeridew, 02-15-2003 20:33:44

I agree. I have been thinking the same thing. I know they are going to pull some of the same stunts that I did...plus a few I never thought of... and better they do it there than at another kids house or worse.

Kind of a 'controlled mayhem' deal

-Sal

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Thanks...

02-15-2003 17:59:26

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Re: O.T. Lumber Strength/Span in reply to Sal, 02-15-2003 12:02:59

Thanks guys...I checked out some of the charts and I plan on talking to the lumber yard guys...there is a good one near-by.

For the most part it's just going to be a sleeping loft for a couple of folks and some gear.

The only thing that worries me is that once my kids get in their teen's they might get some ideas about 'going to the old mans hunting camp' with their buddies...have to kick somebody's behind then.

Thanks again.

-Sal

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JohnnyB

02-15-2003 17:21:47

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Re: O.T. Lumber Strength/Span in reply to Sal, 02-15-2003 12:02:59

A 2 x 8 is too small, I'd go with the 2 x 12 on 12" centers or you might get away with a 2 x 10, but you'd have a little bounce. No big deal in a cabin, but in a $300,000 house, no way. Being its a cabin you might go with the 2 x 8's the put a pole in the middle for support. Most full service lumber yards can help also, (the mega stores don't know didly about this).

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David - OR

02-15-2003 14:07:50

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Re: O.T. Lumber Strength/Span in reply to Sal, 02-15-2003 12:02:59

The formula for deflection of a simply supported beam with a uniform distributed load w is
5wL**4/(384*E*I).

Building codes call for live loads of a "sleeping area" to be figured at 30 pounds per square foot. Typical dead weight of a floor/ceiling assembly might be 10 pounds per square foot.

A good goal is to hold live load deflection to "L/360", with total live plus dead at L/240.

For Southern yellow pine, or Douglas fir, #2 or better, set 16 inches on center, and a 16 foot span supported on the ends, it appears that a 2x8 will not work, and that a 2x10 does work.

You can find span tables for Western Species at
Link
(There are similar tables available from other organizations for Eastern species groups.)

Page 8 is the relevant one for this condition, and confirms that 2x8 won't work, 2x10 will.

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02-16-2003 08:41:12

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Re: Re: O.T. Lumber Strength/Span in reply to David - OR, 02-15-2003 14:07:50

Thanks for the link. Beats the tables I've been using.
Dave

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buck

02-15-2003 13:33:25

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Re: O.T. Lumber Strength/Span in reply to Sal, 02-15-2003 12:02:59

Go to southernpine.com/tables and use ceilng joist with 20 lb.sq.ft. for loading. I think you will find that the 2x8 will do the trick. If I may suggest that you use an 18' member for the joist and cut your rafter to sit on top of it then fasten with metal plates or plywood at connections then you have created a truss. this method will add a few inches of height with same roof pitch,provide your 1'overhang boxing and allows for elimination of ridge board while making construction more simple with same or less materials.

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DAVE S.

02-15-2003 13:31:12

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Re: O.T. Lumber Strength/Span in reply to Sal, 02-15-2003 12:02:59

Hi Sal, 2x8's would work only if u have a wall running down the center below for support.As far as getting your plumb cuts (ridge and plate)you can find all this info on a framing square.

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OH Boy

02-15-2003 12:30:22

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Re: O.T. Lumber Strength/Span in reply to Sal, 02-15-2003 12:02:59

You could probably find a book at your local library that will help you figure out the engineering for your structure.

The size of lumber required depends on the span, it's spacing, and the anticipated load.

I bet you could talk to your local lumberyard and they could help you figure out what you need. Lots of yards have a guy that drafts simple plans and what you are describing sounds right up their alley.

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