Burning out coils !!!!

If you have some sort of inbetween 8v setup.. you need to figure out why it is that way.. would be better to be 6 or 12.. not inbetween.

If you have a 3rd brush genny like on a 9/2n.. check its output ( they are variable ) and make sure it hasn't been adjusted way high, and cooking your coils.

Make sure all connections are ( as Dell says ).. clean bright and tight.

You didn't specify any exact info, so my answer is a bit general... if you write back in with specifics, we will be glad to help.

souNdguy

Unfortunately, there are some well meaning but miss-guided shadetree mechanics that "by-pass" the ballast resistor for "hotter sparkies" for eazier starting. Well yeah, kinda....BUT....that stunt causes the coil to overheat and burn out. (as you are finding out)

HINT: your OEM 6 volt frontmount coil terminal should read about 3.5 volts (2.5 min, 4.0 max) with the point closed and 6.3 volts with the points open. How to tell if points are closed or open? Simple, put tractor in high gear and push on that big lever rear tire and watch if voltage changes in about 2 ft of rolling, (fwd or rev donnna matter)

If it always reads 6.3 volts, you ballast resistor is NOT wired into ignition circuit.

Check frontmount ignition coil wiring so that the ignition switch powers to one side of the ballast resistor and that the otherside of the ballast resistor goes directly to the top terminal of the square frontmount ignition coil. The ignition switch gets its power from the lower middle terminal of the ballast resistor terminal block.

Remember the 6 volt mantra: "keep'em clean, bright, and tight" and don't be fer usin' enny of them thar wimpy ferrin made 12 volt battery cables. Gettcha some 'arry chested 'merrican made 1/0 (thick as yer thumb) battery cables for reliable 6 volt starting..... ...Dell