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Been a long time, so here's a long post... help!

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OKRon

03-21-2003 15:44:56




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Wow, it has been so long since I worked on my 2N that I had to look at my last post to remember where I was. Seems that back in early December I had good blue spark, good compression (OK, Dell was not impressed with 100 psi on a new rebuild), and I had some combustion going on, but the tractor would not start. Just a lot of popping and smoke when the starter was turning the motor. What could be the problem? We sorta narrowed it down to a problem with timing, possibly a mismarked camshaft timing gear (I did install a new one with my rebuild.)

Dell and David – OR explained how I can check this; not as bad as putting the engine back on the stand, but still a big pain! And back then I new I would not have much time to spend on this project until March, so pulling the head was not an option at the time.

However, one other suggestion was to try to run the tractor on starting fluid. I had time for this, so I tried it and it worked. The tractor ran just fine when starter fluid was sprayed into the air intake of the carb. But it would not run without the starter fluid. One other detail I had not made note of before. When I have gas in the carb, the gas pours out of the air intake. These two facts led me to decide to rebuild the carb before I pulled the head.

Sometime last month I rebuilt the carburetor on the kitchen table while my wife was in town. Today (finally) I had the chance to put the rebuilt carb back on and try again. Still no luck. In fact, things have gotten worse. Gas still pours out of the air intake. But today the tractor will not run on ether. I checked a couple of other things.

The voltage at the coil does not seem right. When the points are open, I have > 12V, but when the points are closed, I have less than 3.5V. Actually, I open and close the points by bumping the start button. Then I put my meter on the coil and then turn on the key. When the points are closed, I get about 3.2V at first, but it bleeds down to about 1.8V. Does this indicate a bad condenser? Dang, I didn’t have another one to test with.

Then comes the killer. I checked my compression, and I’ve only got about 70 psi in each cylinder. I hope this means a stuck valve, and it might explain the tractor not starting on ether, I suppose. But could something horrible have gone wrong? I squirted oil in each spark plug hole before I started messing around in the hopes that that would lubricate the cylinders, but it was about 3 hours before I thought to check the compression. The engine never ran, so I never registered any oil pressure in all of my attempts (probably a dozen) to start the engine. Could I have damaged the rings or sleeves?

In the absence of other ideas, I plan to pull the head and check into this timing issue sometime this weekend. But I sure would like to hear what you guys think.

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Bill-BC

03-21-2003 22:48:06




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 Re: Been a long time, so here's a long post... help! in reply to OKRon, 03-21-2003 15:44:56  
Ron, I had a similar problem.
If your engine runs on starting fluid it pretty much indicates Carb problems. Note spraying gasoline from a plastic spray bottle into the air intake also works.
If you have lots of fuel leakage you will quickly flood and foul your spark plugs.(won't start) Remove plugs and dry out I tried to do a quick carb clean without completly disassemling all econmizier etc (no socket,4 times?). I stress compresssed air is also required to blow out all the hidden Gunk. Also check floats for holes (gas inside) adjustment and new valve & seat. Once I did this I was able to start the engine and keep it running for more than a few seconds. The guys on the board stress Carb Cleaner, complete disassembly, and compressed air because that is the only sure way of getting 50 yrs worth of junk out. My carb looked reasonably clean but it was clogged ecomizer etc. Also remove a spark plug wire and leave a gap about a 1/4" and crank over the engine. if you get a nice blue spark your ignition is proably -ok Hope this helps Let us know what you find

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Chuck

03-21-2003 18:04:39




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 Re: Been a long time, so here's a long post... help! in reply to OKRon, 03-21-2003 15:44:56  
Check your firing order, it should be 1, 2, 4, 3, . Sounds like all this popping is due to this problem. Don,t worry about that low compresson, it will probably be OK after awhile.



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OKRon

03-21-2003 20:39:43




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 Re: Re: Been a long time, so here's a long post... help! in reply to Chuck, 03-21-2003 18:04:39  
Using the numbers on the distributor cap, plug wire #1 is connected to the frontmost plug, plug wire #2 is connected to the next one back, plug wire #3 is connected to the third plug back, and plug wire #4 is connected to the plug nearest the steering wheel.



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Week N Warrior

03-22-2003 04:38:35




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 Re: Re: Re: Been a long time, so here's a long post... help! in reply to OKRon, 03-21-2003 20:39:43  
That would be wrong.
You have it hooked up 1,2,3,4
You need to switch the 3 & 4 wire to get 1,2,4,3.

Carl



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Mountainman

03-22-2003 10:12:05




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Been a long time, so here's a long post... help! in reply to Week N Warrior, 03-22-2003 04:38:35  
On a front mount dist., the cap has the terminals numbered. If you follow that system you will have it correctly wired.

Mountainman...CA



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rick craig

03-21-2003 16:12:37




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 Re: Been a long time, so here's a long post... help! in reply to OKRon, 03-21-2003 15:44:56  
she aint breathin.got juice comin out the carb? sounds like ya got some stuck valves. one good thing that you said.your runnin an equal compression in each cylinder. there is a way that sometimes works for stuck valves, but it aint for the faint of heart. get ya some diesel, squirt a little in each plug hole. now get a small hammer,crank the engine over tapping on the head while she's turnin over. when you start the engine on startin fluid it is extrememly dry in the clynders,and provides a lot higher compression. its not abnormal to dry out your valves. you stopped with the use of the startin fluid, dried the valves out and now there stuck possibly. ive seen this happen on engines in the oilfield. if you try this just tapp on the head,dont play babe ruth with it. but as i said i have seen this work.one more thing before you do this. put your hand over the air intake and crank her over, see if you cant feel her breathin. if you cant then valves are probobly your problem. just my thoughts. be safe. rick craig

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