My old '70 Furry wagon is limited to a 5000# GVW trailer, MAX! so I can't pull that 7000# of a fully loaded 16' tandem axle. IF I could, I probably would too. However, because I have single axle and am only 12', the trailer weighs in at just 1000#. That means I can pull a 4000# load which is ONLY 1000# lighter than a 16' tamdem axle. And the two times that I could have used that extra load weight, I just made two trips. Clearly tongue weight is an issue. I take along an old bath room scale. Then when I get the load on I check the tongue weight and adjust as necessary. The last load I had on it was a '50 8N with a 19-8A loader. -- Click image for full size view. -- With the rear wheels right at the back edge of the trailer and the bucket front only a foot or so over the front edge, I had about 120# on the tongue. My reciever for the hitch is very low so I don't like a lot of tongue weight lowering the rear of the wagon. It would be nice to have an extra foot in length, may be two, IF I could get that with out adding much weight to the unloaded trailer weight. But I don't use it that much, have less that 12,000 miles on it. That is three round trips to Iowa, one to NY and PA each plus about six local trips. For me the BIG difference between a single and a tandom axle is the tracking. There is essentially NO resistance to turning with the single. BUT a tandom wants to go straight, PERIOD! You have to skid (all be it a little at a time) the tires to turn - JUST like a skid steer loader, look at the similarities, two FIXED axles with FIXED wheels on them. My Furry wagon is a "tank" - sort of - BUT as far as fighting with a loaded tandom axle trailer, it a feather weight. Gotta' have a Pick'um Up to pull a tandom which I don't have, don't want, and mostly don't need. :-) Like Dell, I can't say enough about tying down your load. I have multiple chains in varying lengths so I can pick the ones that fit the best. And even then I use hairpins instead of cotter pins on the pins thru the grab hooks so I can easily move a hook to the best location. Then I have screw style load binder that I use to get the chains "string plucking" tight, not one of those cheaper over center sytles. The over center style requires that you pull the load tighter than it will finally be, some thing that is not easy for me (at 5'8", 135#), and if it is too tight backing down one link sometimes will be a little too slack. Now I do have two over center binders I picked up when CT went out of business and I do use them sometimes to take the inital slack out of the chains, but the final tensioning is done with the screw binder. I have been know to take over an hour to tie a load down, which frustrates my buddy. But my loads are usually as tight when I get there as when I started! Only when a load has a lot of "bends" in the chain as it goes over stuff, will it loosen up. Those kind of loads I check after going down the road a few miles letting the bouncing work the chains. After I retighten the load it then stays!! It hard to be too safe! So, BE SAFE! Regards, Larry
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