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Hydraulic clutch update

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Paul

04-30-2003 21:03:20




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Well, if it can go wrong.... Pulled everything apart, clutch pin and bushing on pedal was o.k.
Took off slave cylinder, bled that, put it back on. Bled the master cly. and line (this is a gravity bled as there are no bleeder screws anywhere) ,put it all back together and... no clutch at all now. Pulled off the master cly. and checked that and it seemed to be sticky. Went to local parts store, (mistake as you'll see),and purchased new master cly. Installed that , bled system,again, and ...no clutch. Found that the rod in the master cly. is about 1/8 " to long, thereby not allowing the inlet port to open all the way. I shall be removing and returning offensive part back to said parts store and going to Ford. So with all that said, what am I doing or not doing right? Any suggestions before I pull out what hair I have left? How I wish this was on my 8n, I can handle that clutch!! Again Thanks for the help, Paul

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Hobo,NC

05-01-2003 06:18:06




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 Re: Hydraulic clutch update in reply to Paul, 04-30-2003 21:03:20  
Did you remove the slave and stroke the rod all the way in and out to purge air from system. Some times you have to drill a hole in the cap and pull a good vacuum on the system to remove air.
If the master cyl. rod is to long you can remove the short leaver between th clutch pedal and master and move it. It has no master spline. If all fails remove line at master and bleed slave by putting line in fluid and stroking slave. Make sure you have all air out of the master And install line back on master. Some times you have to remove the system and bleed it on the table.

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Mountainman

05-01-2003 00:23:05




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 Re: Hydraulic clutch update in reply to Paul, 04-30-2003 21:03:20  
My hyd clutch system has a bleed screw on the slave cyl and it is still not easy to get it bled right.

Did you take the slave apart and clean out the gunk that is sure to be in there? Check to see if the cyl is scored or worn? Put a 'kit' in it?

Try bench bleeding the slave real slowly with the opening at the highest point to relieve the air.

When you get the wrong part fiasco straightened out, bench bleed the master and sometimes I bleed it again when installed by leaving the line loose at the slave. That way you elimate any air entering the slave which is likely the whole problem.

Don't be too quick to blame the parts house - I got a wrong (and very expensive) part from the best parts man I ever knew - turned out the factory packaged it wrong. They gave me some money back for my trouble - and got the right part to me in a hurry. Of course, you may know something about your parts house that I don't. grin

Remember, unlike a brake master cylinder, the clutch master has no check valve. That means that as you are letting up on the pedal after a down stroke, you are sucking in whatever is available to the open end of the system. If you submerge the line to the slave in brake fluid when you bleed it, you won't suck air back in.

hth

Mountainman...CA

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