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Intermediate/advanced shade tree mechanics

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Rob

05-19-2003 09:00:50




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6v 2N starts great down to 20 degrees outside and has enough power for a 5' bush hog. She smokes, has 75psi on #2 & about the same on #1, #2 plug fouls all the time (fires sometimes) and the tractor uses 1qt/hr oil. Opened front valve chamber and #2 intake valve guide is broken, #2 exhaust port is oily, and springs don't have any paint on them. Remove head and #2 exhaust seat is burnt. Ordered new mushroom valves, split guides, retainers, and springs for #2.
Picked up a valve lapping stick, grinding compound, and 80 grit plumber's roll (emery cloth)for about $15.
Removed the valve spring retainer on #1's burnt exhaust valve and used the emery cloth to remove mat'l from the end of #1 exhaust valve until I had 0.014" tappet to valve clearence and started lapping badly burnt seat. Didn't have to remove the spring, just propped it up with a couple of bolts so I could get between the valve stem and the tapper. Took a full days work to lap but she's done now. It's not perfect, had to stop because other specifications I couldn't do anything about, like valve seat width, were at the limits. The valve is now seating, one place it's not a full 0.070" but it's a seat. Those valves are still out of tolerence as far as valve to guide clearence but that valve is looking one whole lot better then it has in a lot of years. $15 and I have the tool and supplies enough to do all the valves if I want. Now I see I shouldn't have removed #2 exhaust valve. (I ruined it getting it out.) I could have left that broken guide in there too, that wasn't my problem. Bottom line, lapping the exhaust valves takes a lot of elbow grease but it only costs $25 including gaskets. The compression will be up so she might start a lot easier under 20 degrees and maybe she won't burn oil for another couple-few hundred hours, we'll see.
That's a shade tree valve job. Reminds me of when I was a kid and I didn't have any money to keep my '56 chevy running. This isn't for everyone but I get a certain satisfaction keeping the old Ford running without relying on a lot of outside help. I also enjoy avoiding machine shops and their labor rates.
Any of you skin-flint kids don't know how to lap valves just ask.

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IndianaGlen

05-19-2003 12:11:27




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 Re: Intermediate/advanced shade tree mechanics in reply to Rob, 05-19-2003 09:00:50  
You probably know the trick but if you squirt some oil into spark plug hole and the compression comes up for a minute on the gauge, then it's probably the rings, if the compression stays low, it's probably the valves.

My father had me use the suction cup on the stick to lap the valves on my old pontiac some 25 years ago. You mean there is an automated way to do this?? I got blisters before I was finished.

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Rob

05-19-2003 12:43:02




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 Re: Re: Intermediate/advanced shade tree mechanics in reply to IndianaGlen, 05-19-2003 12:11:27  
A dry/wet test with bad valves will mask bad rings. So I guess the right call on a dry/wet test is if the wet isn't higher it's bad valves and you don't know about the rings.



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duey

05-19-2003 10:37:32




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 Re: Intermediate/advanced shade tree mechanics in reply to Rob, 05-19-2003 09:00:50  
Hey Rob, post back when you learn what happens with the oil consumption.... It's been my experience that on flat head engines, the oil comes up past the rings, not so much the valves. I expect it will start better, tho. And generally run better, too.

I've lapped a number of valves, especially in the Continental & Lycoming aircraft engines.... good stuff! duey



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Rob

05-19-2003 10:51:50




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 Re: Re: Intermediate/advanced shade tree mechanics in reply to duey, 05-19-2003 10:37:32  
I'd be surprised if it took care of the oil consumption. You gotta figure there are bad rings in #2. We'll see and I'll let you know if it does any good.



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