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Valve guides

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pete hall

06-14-2003 12:58:28




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does the groove on the new valve guides require a rubber o ring on the 8n valves?




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Hobo,NC

06-15-2003 09:17:08




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 Re: valve guides in reply to pete hall, 06-14-2003 12:58:28  
On the intake guides the seal is needed because you have negtive pressure (vacuum) and if they were not their you would suck the oil out of the crank case. On the exhaust side you have no vacuum so no seal is needed. Very soon after you run the tractor carbon diposits will seal the guides. Now those seals can be a pain to get in and the first one I did I cut it. I set back and looked at it and though about why they would not go in with out cuting them I had my block togather so I was not going to hone the bore and get that trash in the oil pan. The only place that hangs the seal is the intake port were the opening is that you can see when you install the guide. Push the guide in the bore and take a small screwdrive and work the seal by the port opening . Just push in on the seal to get it by the lip and it will go in. As posted the bores do need to be clean.

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pete hall

06-14-2003 20:33:46




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 Re: valve guides in reply to pete hall, 06-14-2003 12:58:28  
Mike,

Thank you for your help. I have another thing to add to your commment. Looking at the old guides I found that the exhaust valves have the seals on them and the intake did not. What is the best way to compress the seal to get the guide all the way threw. What is the purpose of the seals only on intake and not exhaust? Or vise versa.

Thank you for your help.



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Mike OH

06-15-2003 04:38:19




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 Re: Re: valve guides in reply to pete hall, 06-14-2003 20:33:46  
Pete - You don't use the seals on the exhaust because they would get too hot and fail. I used WD-40 on the guides and seals when I installed mine. Had to do mine twice. First time I tried to chamfer the leading edge of the seal and unforturately didn't do a good job. The second time I cleaned the bore real good of all carbon deposits and the WD-40 worked well. Just take your time and they will go in. Good luck.

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Rob

06-15-2003 05:45:19




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 Re: Re: Re: valve guides in reply to Mike OH, 06-15-2003 04:38:19  
Mike you make a great point. You can't overstate the value of getting surfaces CLEAN. Fact is it's either clean...or it isn't clean. Gaskets and seals work sooooo o much better when everything is CLEAN. Not ALMOST clean or PRETTY clean but CLEAN. Parts fit together when it's all clean. Stuff just falls into place, holds, wears, and works so much longer and better when it's clean when a guy puts it together.
I rarely ever use a gasket sealer on a new gasket but I get it clean and it seals and holds. One thing I started doing on flat surfaces to improve gasket performance is to hone the surfaces with the same stone I use to sharpen by pocket knife. It's about 2" x 5" and it knocks off any high spots and dings and it cleans the surfaces to bare new metal. Not much metal is removed and everything stays flat.
For those places like where the valve guides sit a good brush like plumbers use to clean copper fittings works really well. It cleans it down to shiny new metal. I use a lot of emery cloth that I buy in 1" wide rolls sometimes called a 'plumber's roll.' Auto parts sell it by-the-foot from behind the counter and home improvement stores will have it over in the plumbing supplies with solder and flux and stuff. It's great for cleaning shafts and even getting inside places like the valve guide thing. I also use taps and dies a lot. Clean those threads.
Cleaning surfaces and threads is a real chore but the payoff is worth the effort.
Sorry for the lecture.

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Mike OH

06-14-2003 15:36:07




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 Re: valve guides in reply to pete hall, 06-14-2003 12:58:28  
Pete - a seal goes on the intake valves guides only; nothng on the exhaust.



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