8N Overhaul Grief

Now, it's timed correctly. But it still won't start. It's driving me crazy. I even pulled the front cover off and rechecked the cam timing. When the flywheel timing mark is on zero degrees, both the intake and exhaust valves are closed. It is getting spark at 5 degrees before TDC. Compression is 105 - 110 psi on all cylinders. Carb is getting gas. Even if I squirt gas into the cylinders through the spark plug holes, it doesn't even sputter.

Last clue - No suction on carb when cranking engine. I have checked the intake manifold and it is clear - nothing clogging it.

I am at the end of the rope. I've rebuilt many, many engines, but i've never had this problem. I even asked the parts counter man at the dealership to look up the part numbers for a can of gas and a match. Knowing Ford, they probably come as an assembly .

Anyone have any ideas?????

-AL

Are you sure the firing order is correct? Probably not your problem, but if you had all the wires off for the rebuild, you could have them on wrong or backwards.

As others have stated, the lack of suction at the carb troubles me. With the compression that you have, you should have good suction. If not, there must be a leak somewhere between the cylinders and the carb inlet. As someone said, you could have a bad manifold with a hole burned between an intake and exhaust port.

My suggestion would be to change the plugs (even if they are new). I like Autolite 437 plugs. These are hotter than standard. I, personaly, don't like Champions. Then try a squirt of starting fluid in the carb with about half throttle. You should get it to hit that way.

Good luck,
Danny

Three things needed for engine to run:

1) PROPER (whitiesh/blue spark) delivered at the PROPER time to each cylinder. That's timing gear, distributor, firing order, etc. A weak spark will not detonate raw gas which you put into the plug holes.

2) PROPER fuel/air mixture to each cylinder. That's carb, manifold/manifold gasket, air filteration, etc. AND valves opening and closing at correct times AND correct lash. Pouring too much gas in the plug holes may drown out your plugs. It has no real opportunity to vaporze with air for the corrct fuel/air mixture. That's why starting "fluid" is better.

3) PROPER compression, which you say you have.

We know you have decent compression, so the air is getting in somehow, at least during the compression test. The intake system can't be blocked. The valve timing can't be too bad, or the compression numbers would be worse.

Leave the ignition off, open the throttle fully, leave the choke open, put your hand over the choke horn, crank the engine. If there is suction now, figure out what is different when you try to start it -- throttle too far closed, maybe.

An N engine should pull a VERY strong vacuum against your hand as it turns over. It would be difficult to create a bad enough leak to have it pull no vaccuum -- like leaving out the manifold gasket or the carb gasket entirely. Or possibly a large hole between the intake and exhaust passages inside the manifold.

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HTH
Tommy

To answer some of the questions -

1. It's a brand-new exhaust pipe and muffler, so it's possible that it's blocked. I'll check it.

2. I didn't replace the cam gear - never removed it from the cam, and it's an almuminum gear, so I don't think it can slip. I pulled the front cover and rechecked it anyway earlier today.

3. I put new spark plugs in her, but I kept the old ones. I'll try them tomorrow. Wet new plugs are a good possibility. Good idea.

Thanks for all of the input, guys.

-AL