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Split Mr T yesterday

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Rich, NJ

06-29-2003 07:13:19




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I'm passing this little tale along for anyone facing this job. It wasn't that bad, but a lot of planing has to go into it. Engine side; I first welded up a head bolt with a tab to take a bolt as a replacment for the rear center headbolt. This is what I hung the engine side on. I also made the wooden wedges to go between the engine and the axle. Then I blocked the front wheels. Then I disconnected anything that crossed the "great divide". Linkage, steering, rad. arms ETC. I also blocked the wheels so that they could not be moved. Trans-rear side; This is what I chose to move.
I placed a heavy duty dolly under the trans and blocked it up with wood so that there was no position change when the two parts separated. It should be mentioned that this was being done on dirt , not concrete so I put plywood uder the dolly to make sure it would roll back and forth easily. Once I took out all the trans bolts, it rolled back about 8 inches easily. The flywheel and clutch came off easily. Next I had to get the ring gear off the flywheel. I tried heating it with a MAPP gas torch. No good. Then I tried the welder on it. I put ground on one side andthe plus on the other. I left it for about thirty seconds. Nothing! Then I tried welding the RG. Again, Nothing. I ground it out between the teeth and cracked it with a cold chisel. Then I discovered that no one had ever mentioned that the part of the flywheel where the RG sits is undercut about .020. I had read here once that 400 degrees was enough to expand a ring gear to get it on and off. Well. I had the oven on Broil because 500 deg. wasn't enough. I also had to bang it on over that .020 hump. This is after shaving the hump with a file and a belt sander. I didn't take a lot off, but I did reduce it a little and it was enough. I also used some motor oil on the surface to make it a little slicker. After about my fifth trip back to the oven I finally got it to go on. When it got into position , it was loose and it spun on the flywheel. I quenched and it locked right on. To reassmble, I used a 5/8 bolt to guide the flywheel back into position. I torqued it to 85 lbs. For the clutch, I used the same 5/8 bolt with a 3/4 pipe coupling. I had cleaned up the clutch face of the flywheel so I could see the old wear pattern which was useful for centering the disc. This done, It was time to roll the rear back into position. I got the two halves up close and put three old 7/16 head bolts in for guides. This brought the two halves perfectly into line over the guide pins. Reassemble in reverse order. No more whirring of the starter. It engages every time and one of the most nightmarish jobs you can do on a tractor is complete. This was about seven hours. The biggest headache was getting the ring gear back on the flywheel. Reagrds, Rich

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