If I try to name everyone that posted something I've read here,I'll miss some for sure, but I wanted to thank everyone that contributes here on the N-Board. Dad bought a '46 2N last summer to help out on the 40 acres that I bought. In the last year we have: Rebuilt carbureator, replaced the coil, plugs, points, condenser, changed the motor oil, replaced key switch (3), replaced leaking fuel line, fuel line end filter, and installed an ORC. Three weeks ago, Dad was brush-hogging and an overhanging limb caught him in the shoulder. That led to a little incident with a steel fencepost that took out the well-done 'farmerized' front grill, (piece of old mining grill with 1 inch holes), and sheared the Grade 2 shearbolt on the PTO to hog linkage. Scared the bejeebers outta Dad and me, especially when I heard the noise and saw him bouncing down the hill trying to regain control of the 2N. Well, we got all of those things checked out and repaired, but the lift wouldn't lift. Removed the inspection plate, found the relief valve, started her up, PTO engaged no drips or obvious leaks to be seen, no noticeable swirlys in the diffy oil, and no relief valve leakage. Checked the control-arm yoke for movement which seemed ok. Last week I did some reading here, went back Saturday and checked to make sure the 'T' on the Control-valve wasn't broken or disconnected, which it wasn't. In the process of checking the Control-valve I realized that, although the lift control arm was moving the yoke, it felt kind of stiff. I tried to move the Control-valve with my hand and it was very difficult. Mmm hmm. Five gallons of kerosene later, pulled the PTO shaft, a good 4 or 5 handfuls of gunk removed from the differential, about 5 minutes of sloshing around and gingerly probing the nooks and crannys that harbored 'goo'. New gaskets on 2 drain plugs, inspection cover, PTO retainer shroud, and 5 gallons of fresh 90W. Crossed my fingers and fired her up. Pulled back on the lift control and up came the arms! Sunday, we reinstalled the radiator from the Ford 861 I bought last month, that I had the radiator shop boil and repair, installed a new temperature gauge, lower radiator hose, and new thermostat. Oh, and replaced left rear freeze/welch plug, two weekends ago. First thing I did the weekend I bought it was coil, points, condenser, plugs, and rotor. She seemed to be overheating, and/or vaporlocking, which led me to the radiator repair. Now, I seem to have good circulation and flow when viewing the coolant with the radiator cap off. The new temperature gauge shows that she's running about 175 degrees under load, e.g. brushhogging. Ran her about 20 minutes after we got her back together and she started cutting out. The original fuel line had been switched to rubber fuel hose. I couldn't find a picture or schematic for the routing of the original steel line in the FO-20 manual nor on this board, so I ran new fuel hose with a constant 'downhill' attitude to a glass high performance automotive fuel filter about 6 inches above the fuel sediment bowl. My next step is to replace the key switch, in response to the '20 minute' symptom. If that doesn't work, pull No. 1 plug, and check rotor lineup, and timing.Sorry for such a long post, but y'all have been a wealth of knowledge and help, and I just wanted to list all the things that I've done with these two old Ford tractors. I worked the hayfields for 3 years when I was in Highschool, but all I ever did was grease the zerks and fill the fuel tanks, and stack about 30,00 bales. Thanks everyone!
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