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Valve lapping update

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Author 
Rob

07-13-2003 20:28:59




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She's up and running! Woohooooo. Ran it out of gas on the side of a hill with the dang tank valve on the upside! When will I learn. It's such an angle that when I got up there and it immediatly ran out gas it didn't do any good to open the reserve. ALL the gas is on the right side of the tank.
I went to get some gas out of my trencher and the yellowjackets stung me twice. So the N sits on the upper edge of a bar ditch until I get to town for gas.
Ok, I checked the comp when I got the head on and they were 50-60psi. I put several squirts of oil in each plug hole, spun the engine with the starter, and measured 90+ psi on each. Put the plugs in, spun it with a 12v starter box and it took off.
Fiddled with it at idle for 20 minutes and then removed and cleaned the carb because the idle jet didn't do anything. Put the carb back on and after about 30 minutes I got it set up the way I liked and then I checked the comp again. All cylinders at least 95 psi dry. (I had like 75/75/89/87 before I lapped the valves.) Plugs #1 and #4 now have tan deposits but #2 and #4 have wet carbon. I set it up pretty lean. Main jet out about 3/4 turn. And I gapped my plugs at the upper limit of spec at 28 rather then the minimum spec of 25. I don't know really but I'm thinking that might give a hotter spark, or at least more spark. Something is sure working for #1 and #4.
The smoke out the exhaust is way less but still too much. I cut the smoke by 50% or so. Makes sense, only two cylinders wet now. Don't even hardly notice it at idle and that is a HUGE improvement.
I did get a backfire backing up the bush hog to the welder and it was missing at a high speed idle so I turned the main jet out 1/8 turn, and a little later another 1/8 turn just for good measure. Seems to have taken care of that. So that makes if one turn out.
So next Sunday after some break-in hours I expect to report in that the comp is even higher. That's the way it worked on that one cylinder. By next Sunday night...110+ on each cylinder....
I spent a couple bucks on tools. $14 on a crowsfoot set so I could torque the hard-to-get-at headbolts. Lifetime warranty at AutoZone. Crowsfoots kinda hard to find. $10 for an unused and really nice Craftsman c-style spring compressor at a pawn shop. C-style spring comp REAL hard to find. That was great, it still had the 2nd set of jaws attached, never been used. And I got a set of 5 pry bars for $9 and I ground on the big 24" bar to make it work to remove the valve guide retainers.
But now I have some more cool tools that clearly make my life much easier and the money was well spent I say.
I'm really pitching this valve adjusting because I'm convinced it would make a big difference for a lot of tractors out there. Checking the valve lash is cheap and easy. Maintaining the lash can save you a valve job. If you need to lap em then get it done soon or you will end up buying a valve job. You don't have to pull the engine to lap much less run it into a machine shop.

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