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Andrew..... ...you are a good neighbor, this has been discussed many times in the "archives" at the top of this great N-Board. But for you special, I will tell you how I check the frontmount 9N ignition coil. While you can use an ohmmeter to check for coil continuitity, primary is about 1 ohm and secondary is about 7000 ohms. This really doesn't check for sparkies. A GOOD 6 volt OEM square frontmount ignition coil will read about 3.5 volts (2,5 min, 4.0 max) at the ignition coil terminal with the points CLOSED and 6.3 battery volts with the points OPEN. Anyother value gonna give you sparkie problems. Don't know how to tell when points are open or closed? Don't do it with starter!!! Take all your sparkies outta the engine and hand-turn the engine with front fanblades and watch voltmeter. It will change when the point open or close, and set your engine so points are NOT OPEN (not reading battery volts) You don't have a voltmeter? gettcha one, any hardware store sell one. ($10 cheap) Sometime you need to "gently" stretch the coil springy thingy for more positive contact. Sometimes new ignition points slip closed. Remember, its a 2-bolt job to remove frontmount distributor and adjust the ignition points on your kitchen table to 0.015". The distributor is driven by an OFFSET camshaft drive and cannot be installed 180 deg outta time except by BIG HAMMER. Gentle does it on re-installation, wigggle your distributor rotor around so it goes together eazy. Sometimes the only "cure" for BAD sparkies is a new coil. Remember, you MUST HAVE the "infamous ballast resistor" in the coil circuitry, otherwize, yer gonna melt your coils insulative tar and coil won't work..... ....respectfully, Dell
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