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If by rpm meter you are refering to your oem proofmeter.. it is not an electrical device.. it is mechanical, and driven off of your gov'ner housing. If it is some sort of electrical device powered off the tractors electrical system.. then yes.. that may be why it doesn't work. As for a wiring diagram... lots of different ways to convert to 12v with an alternator.. each depends on the hardware you have. Here's a few basics... the alternator is going to want negative ground ( unless you have an ultra-rare) positive ground alt... doubt that.. If you are going to keep your same 6v ignition coil, you will need a 12 to 6 dropping resistor, and if your system is presently using the ballast resistor for a front mount coil, you will need that too.
If you have a sidemount, and are changing polarity, remember to make sure that your ignition coil is hooked up to the correct polarity or you might loose some sparkies.. though might not be noticable.. As far as the alternator hookup... depends on if you have a 1 wire job, or one that uses a regularor. I prefer the ones with a regulator.. they start charging at a lower rpm.. no wierd 'magic' with switches diodes or lights.. etc..... just a tad more expensive. Hit the archives to find a few schematics for alternators, or post back here with your specific equipment. soundguy
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