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Ford 9N, 2N & 8N Discussion Forum

Rope seals

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Ron(OK)

08-07-2003 10:37:35

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Just wanted to see what you guys think about leaking new rope seals. My '47 2N just received a complete rebuild, ie. pistons, sleeves, valves, oil pump, bearings, head, deck and manifold machined and yes, new rope seals. A machine shop did the motor rebuild and he said he took great care to correctly install the seals. I replaced the PTO input seal and gaskets myself before reinstalling the motor. Motor runs great but after each shutdown, I get 2 to 4 drops of oil on the floor from both the front and rear seals. Only have about 10 hours on the rebuild. Is this normal? Will they eventually quit leaking? BTW, it had no leaks before the rebuild, so I was spoiled. Your thoughts appreciated.

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Scott Parker

08-08-2003 12:45:42

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Re: Rope seals in reply to Ron(OK), 08-07-2003 10:37:35

My dad and I just rebuilt mine; same problem with the rear seal. Front doesn't leak one bit, but the rear is probably 4-5 drops every 24 hrs. All procedures - presoak, trim, etc. followed to the letter. Others I have talked to have said they put the drain holes in the bellhousing for a reason - some leak, some don't. I'm with you in hoping the leak cruds up in the foreseeable future so I don't do something stupid such as tearing into a perfect running engine just because.

SEP

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jeb2n

08-08-2003 09:33:45

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Re: Rope seals in reply to Ron(OK), 08-07-2003 10:37:35

Wasn't there some alternative to the rope seals on the engine? Some new seal that was available? I may be getting the rope seals on the engine confused with the sure seals on the rear axle, but I thought that somebody made a non-rope seal for the engines that didn't leak as easily.

Just wundern'

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Ron OK

08-08-2003 09:15:27

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Re: Rope seals in reply to Ron(OK), 08-07-2003 10:37:35

Thanks for the sympathy and advice. I spoke to the shop again and sounds like he installed the seals correctly, ie. pressed them in, trimmed, and correctly installed the gasket. He also said he'd back his labor and R&R the seals, however, I'll need to remove the motor and take it to him. Will wait until winter, it might stop leaking by then.

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Mike OH

08-08-2003 06:43:38

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Re: Rope seals in reply to Ron(OK), 08-07-2003 10:37:35

Ron - I had exactly the same problems you are. I stopped the front seal leak when I found I had not tightened the front pulley tight enough. However I get a few drops from both cotter keys and don't want to tare her down again. I simply wipe both cotter pins with a rag when I shut her down and no longer find the drips on my floor. Works for me.

Mike OH '52 8N 515797

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Mike

08-07-2003 20:15:30

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Re: Rope seals in reply to Ron(OK), 08-07-2003 10:37:35

Ron,
Morally you are definitely correct, the shop doing the work should most certainly stand behind their work. The sad truth is, even if you are able to browbeat them into redoing the seals, they won't be bothered being too careful as they are losing money every minute they spend on your engine.

Were it I, I would bite the bullet, be sure to soak the ropes at least 24 hours prior to installation, and put them in myself. The job's a pain in the butt, but not particularly difficult, and you have to pull the engine either way. Good luck.

Mike

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Rick H. Ga.

08-07-2003 12:10:17

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Re: Rope seals in reply to Ron(OK), 08-07-2003 10:37:35

Hi Ron,

When I rebuilt my 8N engine a couple of years ago I too took the extra time to make sure the rope seals were installed properly. I followed the F-04 instructions to the T and even called an experienced tractor mechanic to ask how to overlap the oil pan gasket with the rope seals. My 8N doesn't leak a drop or even weep any; it is dry as a bone.

Since you paid to have the professional shop rebuild the engine I would think you have the right to ask them to fix it (at no charge). Even though they said they took great care in installing the rope seals, apparently they didn't do something right. My .02 Rick H. Ga.

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Ron OK

08-07-2003 14:45:03

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Re: Re: Rope seals in reply to Rick H. Ga., 08-07-2003 12:10:17

Thanks Rick,
I talked to the shop and they indicated that its difficult to guarantee that rope seals wont leak, kind of a debate. That's why I'm asking if it is typical for these seals to leak some. I'll either have to get more demanding or fix it myself. BTW, is there more than one F0-4 manual for N tractors? Mine has only a short paragraph on crankshaft seals on page 13 with no detailed instructions. The booklet has only 39 pages.

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Dell (WA)

08-07-2003 19:37:20

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Re: Re: Re: Rope seals in reply to Ron OK, 08-07-2003 14:45:03

Ron..... .latest I&T FO-4 manual is about 160 pages. $27 cheap..... ..Dell

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Ron in Ohio

08-07-2003 16:49:09

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Re: Re: Re: Rope seals in reply to Ron OK, 08-07-2003 14:45:03

Ron:

I, too, had my engine overhauled professionally. It also leaked at the front rope seal. I complained about the leak and got a new, different source rope seal put in. However, it also leaks at the same rate you describe. I have learned to live with it by putting a plastic bowl under the leak. My rear seal does not leak.

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Rick H. Ga.

08-07-2003 18:35:55

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Re: Re: Re: Re: Rope seals in reply to Ron in Ohio, 08-07-2003 16:49:09

My front crank pulley had a grove wore in it by the old crank seal. I had the grove welded and turned down to the original diameter.

I soaked the new oil seals in oil and pressed them in good with a big socket. I trimmed the excess seal with a razor blade to about a 1/8 to 1/16 sticking up above the block and oil pan. I overlapped the oil pan gasket on top of the rope seals.

I was told that the old rope seals are tough and not prone to leak, especially when new. HTH Rick H Ga.
.

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