New Alternator-Won't Quit Now

Easiest i can think of, and least elegant is a second switch somewhere in an inconspicous location.. just a toggle, etc...

But yes.. as it is wired, you now have a charging system that is backfeeding the ignition side of the switch.

Soundguy

That momentary switch will disconnect any "feedback" from your new alternators gutts which is why you can't turn your engine off.

Of course, you could install an "idiot light" between P-1 EXCITE and ignition switch ON like General Motors been doing for 30 years, using a trailer clearance lamp assy (has 2 built-in wires, eazy to install and you don't really have to look at the idiot light, mount it anywhere)

Or you could install a 1-way diode between P-1 EXCITE and the ignition switch ON terminal.

As to why you NOW HAVE PROBLEM, I haven't got a clue except to guess that your replacement alternator is different than your OLD alternator and that there was probably some internal changes to the gutts of your old alternator by the original converter..... ....Dell, a 12 volt advocate for the right reason, who knows 8 different ways to correctly convert with DELCO 10-SI alternators the first time

First off, ignition switches can't handle the POWER out of the alternator without burning up. So when you write ...." BAT(on ALT) goes to ING(on IGN SW)"..... that scares me..... Because your alternator is at least 50 amps output..... .and "ING" is usually ignition switch OUTPUT and goes to the ignition coil, not BATT input (from alternator)

Secondly, you write....."P2(on ALT) goes to BAT (on IGN SW).....usually P2 is connected by short wire to alternator BATT STUD.

The only thing that makes sense is..... .you write..... "P1 (on ALT)goes to my ACC(on IGN SW)"..... this is the same thing as idiot light or your pushbutton EXCITE switch. This is suppost to make your tractor engine "turn off" (which is what you are complaining about) when you turn your key OFF.

So based upon what you write, I'd suggest the following changes:

1) connect P-2 directly by short wire to alternator BATT STUD

2) connect alternator BATT STUD to starter solenoid BATT STUD (now battery will charge)

3) connect ignition switch BATT to starter solenoid BATT STUD, this will give power to BOTH the ignition coil and to P-1 EXCITE thru the ACC terminal

4) connect ignition switch IGN to 12 volt ignition coil input.

You may find your "non-tractor standard" automotive ignition switch is "fried" inside. Just replace it with same kind of switch..... ....HTH, Dell

But yes, a togle switch in line with the coil will act as a kill switch easy. I'de have to see an existing schematic of your electrical system before I suggested where to put a diode.. so many ways to hook these 12v conversions up, etc.. would have to see what is where.. etc.

Soundguy

Tom