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8N timing

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revamac

08-14-2003 06:44:15

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Trying to check timing on my sidemount 8N. In looking through the inspection port on right side i see the pointer but I see no marks on the flywheel or ring gear. What am I looking for? Seems like it would be really hard to see degree markings?
Also, and this is important: should the No. 1 terminal on dist. cap be away from engine to the left (looking from side) or right side, close to engine?
Thanks

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Chuck A.

08-14-2003 18:20:12

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Re: 8N timing in reply to revamac, 08-14-2003 06:44:15

I never could find mine. I even use a piece of wire bent like a S to feel the top of the piston come up on the comp stroke. I think my flywheel may have been changed out at some time.

Chuck A.

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revamac

08-14-2003 19:44:25

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Re: Re: 8N timing in reply to Chuck A., 08-14-2003 18:20:12

Yeah, Chuck, I don't think mine are there. What would be the point of puttingthem on and then making them impossible to read. I'm sorry iiididn't file a mark on years ago when my Dad replaced the clutch.
Thanks forthe bet wire idea. I think that's for me.How didyou deal with the 4 degree issue?

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Chuck A

08-15-2003 13:34:29

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Re: Re: Re: 8N timing in reply to revamac, 08-14-2003 19:44:25

Well, you could use trig. to figure what the degree intervals in inches would be at the radius of the flywheel. Then mark it. Or..... just use your ear to get it to idle good and rev up good. That is what I did.

But when I do my clutch soon I am going to mark the fly wheel like I said.

Chuck A

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Bruce (VA)

08-14-2003 12:35:30

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Re: 8N timing in reply to revamac, 08-14-2003 06:44:15

I was told, but can't confirm, that front mount distributor N's did not have timing marks on the fly wheel. So, if that's true, you may have an older model flywheel. But, chances are you just aren't getting the flywheel lined up perfectly w/ the hole in the bell housing....all mine has is a 5 and a 20. No ball, no lines....just the numbers 5 & 20 with the degree symbol. And, as Del said, the marks are hard to see. After getting the rotor as close to #1 as I could, I used a screw driver and turned the fly wheel tooth by tooth until I finally found the marks. Then, because I could not get a piece of chalk through the hole, I painted a nice white line on the fly wheel & the ring gear.

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david - OR

08-14-2003 07:42:57

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Re: 8N timing in reply to revamac, 08-14-2003 06:44:15

As Dell explained, the distributor cap is keyed to the distributor, and can only go on one way. The position of the #1 spark plug wire (and the veracity of the "1" label on the cap) is a function of how you install the distributor, which in turn is a function of which gear teeth on the distributor base gear get meshed with the camshaft. You get to pick this as you drop the distributor into the block. Many choices are possible. Just lift up the distributor, turn the rotor a bit, and drop it back down to change.

As a practical matter, you want the distributor oiler pointing out away from the block so you can get at it with your oil can. You also want the lead from the distributor to the coil to be short and neat. You may want the distributor to look like "how the factory did it".

These latter goals are best served by installing the distributor so that the #1 spark plug lead is the one farthest away from the block. Call it the "3:30 o'clock position", using straight towards the fan as "12 o'clock". This approximates the alignment shown on page 70 of the "Master Parts Catalog".

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Dell (WA)

08-14-2003 07:12:29

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Re: 8N timing in reply to revamac, 08-14-2003 06:44:15

Revamac..... ....the 5-nipple sidemount distributor cap is "keyed" to fit a notch on distributor body. And it doesn't make any difference wheather the #1 nipple is close to radiator or close to carburator..... as long as..... #1 nipple connects to #1 sparkie when rotor is pointing to #1 nipple (underneath the cap) when your flywheel timing is pointing to 4BTDC.

And yes, can be bugger to find your flywheel timing marks, they are kinda weak. Heres what I do. I pull ALL SPARKIES so I can eazly turn engine with fanblades. I put thumb over #1 sparkie and turn engine until #1 compression blows thumb offfa hole..... ...then carefully look for flywheel timing marks. When I find'em, I rub old schoolboard chalk ingraved marks to make'm stand out.

Caution: there are 2-sets of flywheel timing marks, 180 deg appart. This makes it eazy to time engine 'cuz it don't matter which sparkie you use to trigger timing light, always works for 4 cylinder engine.

Caution: ALWAYS USE COPPER CORE SPARKIE WIRE. Don't use modern carbon resistant anti-radiostatic sparkie wire. Ya ain't got enuff spare sparkies..... ....Dell

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revamac

08-14-2003 10:07:01

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Re: Re: 8N timing in reply to Dell (WA), 08-14-2003 07:12:29

Thanks.
I still don't see those timing marks. Are they on the center or edges of flywheel. And I guess there is no dimple for TDC like most cars have (or used to have).
Thanks again.

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Dell (WA)

08-14-2003 12:43:51

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Re: Re: Re: 8N timing in reply to revamac, 08-14-2003 10:07:01

Revamac..... ...quoting from the I&T FO-4 manual:..... .
"The flyweel of production engines equipped with angle drive (sidemount) distributors is stamped with an "O" mark indicating top center position (TDC) and with additional stamped lines up to 20 deg BTDC (Before Top Dead Center) in 1 degree increments. The degree lines index with a ponter at the flywheel timing port located on the right side of the engine behind (underneath) a teardrop shaped cover plate. The "O" marker and degrees line appear on the flywheel twice, 180 deg apart, so running timing (using timing light) can be checked from any spark plug wire. (as opposed to static timing)

To set the basic ignition timing, loosen timing hole cover retaining screw and move the cover to expose the timing port. Remove the spark plug from #1 cylinder. Remove the distributor cap. Rotate the crankshaft until compression pressure is felt at the #1 sparkplug hole. Continue turning the crankshaft, using a screwdriver in the flywheel ring gear teeth, until the 4 deg flwheel timing mark is aligned with the pointer in the timing hole. In this position, the ignition contacts points should just begin to open. (verify by watching a test light turn ON or voltmeter reading battery volts). If the ignition points must be moved to obtain the correct separation point, loosen the (distributor) clamp screw and rotate the distributor body as necessary"..... end quote..... ..Dell

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