Findout why you are only getting 10.5 volts at the coil with the points open. Its a simple series circuit and it is INCOMPLETE (because points are open) you should get the full applied 12.6 battery volts. (in tech terms E applied) Since the nominal resistance of the "infamous ballast resistor" is about 1.3 ohms at ambiant tempature and since your Chrysler BR is 1.2 ohms, and since most 12 to 6 volt converting resistors are about 1.5 ohms. your cutting your E applied by twice. Ya gotts an extra resistor somewheres. FIND IT, just for your peace of mind. (and I'll bet you'll find that it is the OEM ballast resistor mounted to the back of the dashpanel) Bottom line, 3.2-3.5 volts at the frontmount coil terminal is the desired voltage. Use eather the OEM ballast resistor OR the Chrysler BR but NOT BOTH. As for the voltage drop "across" your 12 to 6 volt resistor, you'll get NO DROP until the series circuit is completed by closing the ignition points. Series resistors are like flashlight batterys, doesn't matter which one goes first but the light doesn't work untill the switch is closed. I generally put the 12 to 6 volt converting resistor between the ignition switch ON terminal and the ballast resistor's former ignition switch terminal. Oh yeah, check your ignition switch voltages, both sides against ground. Should be same voltage when turned on. Lotta ignition switches get gunked up internal contacts and you'll loose 1-2 volts, not good. As for your drained battery, not uncommon to miss-wire and drain battery, specially if ammeter doesn't show amps. Infact, your daily driver, if left parked for about 1 month will drain its battery thru your idiot light and you won't see a thing. Since you start your daily driver every day, you fully recharge your battery mini-drain and never notice it..... ....respectfully, Dell
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