Welcome! Please use the navigational links to explore our website.
PartsASAP LogoCompany Logo Auction Link (800) 853-2651

Shop Now

   Allis Chalmers Case Farmall IH Ford 8N,9N,2N Ford
   Ferguson John Deere Massey Ferguson Minn. Moline Oliver

Ford 9N, 2N & 8N Discussion Forum
:

Battery cables

Welcome Guest, Log in or Register
Author 
Rich

10-20-2003 10:07:25




Report to Moderator

Just yesterday I think I finally solved a nagging starting problem with my '41 9N. A few weeks ago, I had purchased a new 6 volt (three-year) battery from my Ford Dealership. It was quickly installed and I thought it funny that the new battery didn't seem to start the engine any faster than my (four year old) three-year battery. After a few days the engine refused to start and I tried every trick I new to get her going. I had confirmed that the battery was fully charged, the starter was good (had pulled it and tested it off of the tractor), removed and cleaned the conections on the start switch underneath the battery, the engine hadn't suddenly seized, the ignition key swith was fine and all of the wiring connections were clean, bright and tight. However, yesterday I did a much more thorough job of cleaning the battery cable connections and I was able to jump start her by by-passing the start switch with a jumper cable. She started right up and showed a positive charge on the ammeter. I ran her hard for at least a half hour. Upon shutting her off, she again refused to turn over. I suspect that one or both of the 2-guage cables from the battery to the start switch, or to the starter has a bad or loose internal connection. I had previously tested with my meter to see if the starter was receiving 6 volts from the battery and it was. The meter even showed that the start switch was behaving itself. After reviewing the archives, I couldn't find anything that addressed testing of the battery cables themselves. Is there any kind of test that would show if any of the 2 gauge cables have a problem? I'm thinking that the test could show if there was an internal breakdown and/or loose connection. I hate to order parts in the hopes that this will solve the problem. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[Log in to Reply]   [No Email]
joe(NY)

10-20-2003 18:50:59




Report to Moderator
 Re: Battery cables in reply to Rich, 10-20-2003 10:07:25  
Rich, I also had starter problems. I got new bat but didn't help. It turned out that my starter's bendix wasn't moving properly. It would get stuck in a position that would not allow the gears to the flywheel teeth to engage, although the starter would sometimes spin by itself. Eventually I couldn't even get a spin out of it. Result, I put in a new starter and started right up. Before you get a new starter you mighjt want to remove it first and move the bendix mechanism all the way back toward the starter and reinstall it. This sometimes does the trick. I bought a new starter because mine turned very sloooowly when it did turn at all. Just a suggestion I picked up on this board.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
simple . . . Dell (WA)

10-20-2003 11:05:34




Report to Moderator
 Re: Battery cables in reply to Rich, 10-20-2003 10:07:25  
Rich..... ..with battery connected, just measure the voltage drop from end-to-end of your cable while cranking your starter motor. Should have "ZERO" voltage drop. Any voltage drop is internal cable resistance (corrosion). Ohmmeters don't measure low resistances like yer battery cable is suppost to be, (its a technical thing) but the voltmeter works just great.

BTW, them tharr wimpy 2 gauge battery cables for 6 volt N-Tractors AIN'T gonna doitt. Recommend one/naught (1/0) thicka yer thumb battery cables..... ....respectfully, Dell

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Salmoneye

10-20-2003 10:29:20




Report to Moderator
 Re: Battery cables in reply to Rich, 10-20-2003 10:07:25  
I make my own 1 aught gauge (1/0) cables from fine wire welding cable and Wal-Mart special brass ends...Solder all connections and cut them to the exact (shortest) length...

Come in way less than $10/pair...

Only test I know is an OHM meter to see how high your resistance is on those puny 2-guage cables...



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
[Options]  [Printer Friendly]  [Posting Help]  [Return to Forum]   [Log in to Reply]

Hop to:


TRACTOR PARTS TRACTOR MANUALS
We sell tractor parts!  We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]

Home  |  Forums


Copyright © 1997-2023 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy

TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters

Website Accessibility Policy