Compression ? update

Heres what I found, number one tappet clearances are: exhaust-.014, intake-.007. Appears intake needs adjusting, FO-4 says .010 min. While there I checked #2, exhaust-.014, intake .008. This was a surprise as #2 has the highest compression (95/100) of all cylinders.

Now I've got more questions: 1 - why is the compression so good on #2 with intake .002 below specs?
2 - do I need the special wrenches called for in FO-4 to make the adjustments, or is there something else that will work?
3 - if special wrenches are needed, where do I get them?
4 - What is the cost? (hate to pay a lot as this is probably the only time I'll need them)

Thanks in advance, and again, thanks to all for the feedback to my first post.

Respectfully...John A

Don't be afraid to pull the head and see if you've got a stuck valve, scored cylinders or whatever. It's only about an hour's job and that includes pulling the hood.

OK-AL

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As for adjustment, if you have the adjustable type you an experiment with wrenches to see what'll get in there to adjust them. If not, you have to pull the head and grind the valves. May as well lap the valves too, check head and block, new head gasket.

As for the higher #2 readings, probably means that #2 rings and your valve/valve seats are in better shape. #1 sure looks like a stuck valve/bad seat. Sorry Bubba, but if I were you I'd forget making valve adjustments and pull the head to find the real cause(s).

Thanks again...John A

Try this:

(1) Pull plugs.

(2) Adjust tappits so that they have NO tolerance. You'll have to MANUALLY crank the engine around to set each tappit. In fact, disconnect your battery because at NO TIME during this little excercise do I want you using the electric start! Crank slowly and if you meet resistence or hear a valve tap against the head then back that valve off a little.

What we're after with this is to raise your valves higher than they are used to so' you can squirt MMO or Rislone down your oil gallery (the hexagonal nut on front of timing cover) and cover more of the valve. Squirt stuff liberally and let it sit a day, manually crank engine 3-4 full revolutions (i.e., TDC comp stroke #1). Squirt again, wait a day and repeat crank.

(3) Adjust tappits back to specs. Hand crank again, RECHECK tappit clearances, hand crank, recheck. Then reconnect your battery for a new comp check. Don't try to fire her up until after comp check because we're still building baseline data from your first comp check thru this little valve exercise. If improvement in comp (5 pounds is material enough) then you can either repeat above to try and free 'em up some more or try starting her.

If above doesn't work I recommend valve job.

Thanks for the come-back...John A

While adjusting the clearances will not hurt, and should be done, it will not "fix" your compression issues. You have enough clearance that a cold compression check should not be affected.

If the tappet bases have been drilled, you do not need the special wrenches. You can keep the tappet from spinning with an awl or nail inserted into the drilled hole. Use an open end wrench to turn the adjuster.

The special wrenches are only a few dollars. Available from a mail order vendor specializing in these tractors.