Head Gaskey replacement

Torqueing in sequence, as you 'gain say, draws the head down in a way that best flatens the head evenly and best assures that you won't CRACK the head.

A flathead head will, in fact, bend a small amount IF you torque it down properly. BTW, never go straight for maximum torque on each bolt even IN proper sequence. Start each at about 50% of specified torque (in sequence), then 75%, then 100% and do the 100% a second time for uniformity.

Realize that over 50+ years, the head may have been milled already. You can only mill so much off and will result in topping out the valves against the head if too much is milled.

All comments below are good ones. What I'd do is pull the head off, check for warpage (a few thousands deflection is NOT enough to need milling the head), check for cracks in the head and in block, check head bolt/thread condition, look for evidence of burning between cylinders which would indicate blown gasket.

When you reinstall with a new gasket, realize that you will need to retorque (in proper sequence) the head bolts after just a few hours.

BTW, while the head is off I recommend doing the following also:

1) Check cylinder and piston wear/scoring.
2) Check valve lash (yes, I know it has nothing to do with head removal, but it sure helps being able to see the piston at TDC when checking lash)
3) Since you have an 8N, your flywheel will probably have a marked flywheel (you can see it thru the littlr teardropped shaped cover on right side of clutch housing). Good time to chexk static timing and to mark the TDC and 4% BTDC point on the flywheel for easy future reference.

Also.. before you got it going.. did you change the oil, and was it milky then?
Might just be residual water in the system.. unless, as stated before.. it is bubbling in the radiator, or you already chaged the oil, and it is milky again.. etc.

Soundguy