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Ford 9N, 2N & 8N Discussion Forum
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your thoughts on starter decision

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ratface

12-22-2003 09:58:31




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Now that it got a little cold seems that a starter problem has come to light. Starter will kick out before engine starts. Worn bendix indictated according to archives. Tractor needs a tune up after summer but I've now got the starter out. I've just read 196 posts from the archives about starters and they have raised some questions. Tractor is a 1949 8n 12volt, starter seems to be original 6 volt. Fellow in archives says stay with six volt starter because they are built better. My brushes look really worn. If I ordered the replacement drive what do I do about the brushes? Is there any advantage to using a 12 volt starter. The clutch drive seems to be the favorite in the archives. I could order one of these but that would leave me with a six volt starter with worn brushes. Do I take the old one to a starter rebuild shop or is it going to cost less to buy a new starter? According to this board: new drive $35.00, new starter 12 volt $139.00. six volt is about the same price.

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ratface, armatures and am

12-22-2003 12:36:16




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 Re: your thoughts on starter decision in reply to ratface, 12-22-2003 09:58:31  
So how well do armatures and amatuers mix. I guess what I'm trying to decide is whether to attempt a rebuild or start looking for a shop. From reading the archives I surmise that you somehow compress a spring on the starter drive shaft to reveal a roll pin to remove the drive. The clutch type then mates up with this hole without redrilling a new hole on the shaft. There is another type where you use a drill press to redrill a new hole but I'll stay away from that. I can cut the mica but do I need a machine shop to cut the armature or just sand these shiny? The brushes look intimidating since you can't get your hand in the cannister to reach them. I printed out an article from the archives where you position the springs in such a way as to jam the brushes in their holders allowing the armature back in the housing but I won't really understand this until I attempt it. I gather that I should then order a kit which comes with new brushes and a new clutch style starter drive which remains engaged until the engine reaches appx. 300 rpms. Anything else I need to order? Thanks again for all your wisdom and time.

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Jim Cox

12-22-2003 11:12:34




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 Re: your thoughts on starter decision in reply to ratface, 12-22-2003 09:58:31  
Your problem is probably the starter drive. The old 'spiral screw' (the true BENDIX) drive is not known for staying engaged, that's why it was discontinued, but there are still people cheap enough to use them, buy them, and sell them, instead of using the better 'folo-thru' design. THERE IS a difference between 6V and 12V starters, but as long as you have a good starter drive, you'll never have to worry about why a compound motor doesn't over-rev till the armature explodes (Ford's 12V) while a series-wound motor can (Ford's 6V). Was Ford wrong spending that extra $1.50 on those millions of starters on cars, trucks, and tractors? Do you think they wanted to spend the extra cash, or perhaps they paid attention to their warranty analysis. With a good drive, you 'll be find. As for armature/commutator under-cutting, a rebuilder may be lazy, but a REMANUFACTURER won't be, and it really depends on the design of the insulator anyway. But you can always go buy some cheap imported junk and not really care how long it lasts, right? If that were the case, we could all scrap our Ns for disposable FarmPro / Northern Tool tractors and get live hydraulics thrown in. We'd just have to wear our hats real low so nobody could see our face.

American Pride, American Ride (or tractor)

Jim Cox

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Dell (WA)

12-22-2003 11:08:30




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 Re: your thoughts on starter decision in reply to ratface, 12-22-2003 09:58:31  
Ratsey..... ...One of the main reasons people convert their 6 volt tractor to 12 volts is because 12 volts on a 6 volt starter really makes that tired engine spin for eazier starting. I fail to see the logic in changing your 6 volt starter gutts to 12 volts because it ain't gonna spin as fast as the 6 volt starter gutts do.

Yer original starter bendix drive is worn and kicks out with just 1-kauff of a sparkie. Get the modern "clutch style" starter bendix, it don't kick-out.

Then replace yer starter brushes and polish your copper commutator bars with some sandpaper to get mostly shinny copper. Brushes usally come contoured to fit the commutator. Generally, you really don't need to have the commutator turned, but you can if'n ya wants. Be prepaired to undercut the mica insullation from between the commutator bars with broken hacksaw blade.

Then remember the 6 volt MANTRA: "keep'em clean, bright, and tight" and don't be fer usin' enny of them thar wimpy ferrin starter cables. Gettcha sum 'arrychested 'murrcum made one-naught (1/0) thick as yer thumb starter cables..... ...respectfully, Dell

A 12 volt advocate for the right reason

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Evil Steve

12-22-2003 10:31:08




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 Re: your thoughts on starter decision in reply to ratface, 12-22-2003 09:58:31  
rf-

From your description, I would first order the rebuild kit and rebuild the starter and just clean up the bendix. Worn brushes alone will cause your bendix to kick out. Please note that your armature will be worn to a different diameter than your replacement brushes thereby reducing the contact. You can either "risk" not doing any fine sandpaper reshaping of the brushes to contour them to the armature. It's not a whole lot of risk and you should still have enough contact, but it does happen on a 50+ year old starter.

The other thing you SHOULD DO and it's EASY, is to take a broken in half hack saw blade, wrap some tape around the remianing eye-hole end and gently file away about .005" of the thin layer of mica in each "section" of the armature. This mica acts as an electrical insulator between sections and tends to wear more slowly than the metal in the sections. Therefore, the mica sticks up between sections and causes brushes to have poor contact. Undercutting them with a hacksaw blade not only keeps brushes making good contact, but it also gives you a much longer lasting starter overhaul because it will take some time for the mica to become exposed again. AND your brushes will wear into a good contour anyway over time.

NO NEED to by a rebuilt starter whether 6v or 12v. Your 6v original starter will work just fine. AND, those remanufactured starters do NOT have the mica undercut because rebuilders are lazy.

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Bob

12-22-2003 10:58:28




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 Re: Re: your thoughts on starter decision in reply to Evil Steve, 12-22-2003 10:31:08  
I was taught to NEVER undercut the mica on a starter, only on generators. The copper material in starter brushes will imbed itself in the grooves, and may cause at least a partial short between commutator segments, which slows down the starter.

The starter will work just fine without undercutting the mica, as the brushes are made of a harder material than generator brushes, and the mica will wear away as the copper commutator does.

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Evil Steve

12-22-2003 12:10:03




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 Re: Re: Re: your thoughts on starter decision in reply to Bob, 12-22-2003 10:58:28  
Bob-

This is something I learned to do from my dad who was a master mechanic and machinist in the SAC and later for the Army civil service. Done properly, it really is better and is the way most armatures are manufactured new. Might want to review a post from Wayne Mo in Aug 19, 2002 from the Archives on this subject.



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SteveB(wi)

12-22-2003 10:29:45




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 Re: your thoughts on starter decision in reply to ratface, 12-22-2003 09:58:31  
I just redid my '52 8N starter this summer. 6V starter on a 12V system. I bought the starter kit and the new bushings for the end plates. Had the machinist at work cut the armature and undercut the mica myself. The bendix was good. I think the whole deal set me back $15 and a six pack, plus a couple hours time. The brushes are about $3.50 a set and a kit W/ brushes, springs, new post etc is $7. If you are gonna pull it out I would spend the money and at least put new brushes in it. Not a hard job to do yourself.

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raytasch

12-22-2003 10:21:45




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 Re: your thoughts on starter decision in reply to ratface, 12-22-2003 09:58:31  
If you don't feel up to the task of installing new brushes take the starter to an OLD TIMER rebuild shop and have them do it. Get the right shop and shop guy will have the bendix drive in stock. My guy charges me $35 to go thru one, bushings, brushes, etc. They will check bushings, draw, and cut the commutator if needed. Don't worry about the 12v--6v. If the fields need replacement tell them it is running 12v and they will change it. Nothing worse than a starter that drags, kicks out or acts up any way. IT leads to other problems like flywheel teeth messed up.
ray

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hobo, Nc

12-22-2003 10:15:40




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 Re: your thoughts on starter decision in reply to ratface, 12-22-2003 09:58:31  
I have a extra starter that was worn out. my starter man talked me into building it back to 12V. Said it would not kick in as hard a a 6v run on 12V and not as many RPM. have not tryed it yet. It was 75.00 for labor, armature, fields, drive end plate and brushes. Did not include drive.



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tim

12-22-2003 19:53:23




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 Re: Re: your thoughts on starter decision in reply to hobo, Nc, 12-22-2003 10:15:40  
Thats why ,6/12 volts .They dont go together.6mvolts or 12



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