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Ford 9N, 2N & 8N Discussion Forum
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Ford 1500 with box blade I have a grading problem

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Oscar M

01-16-2004 15:56:46




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I've tried to get the ripples out of my driveway and no matter how many passes I make the ripples are still there.What am I doing wrong? Do I need to fill my wheels with water?Am I going too fast?Is my boxblade set in the wrong position?Should I run in reverse?I've tried everything.Please if anyone can help I would greatly appreciate it.Thanks in advance.




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Carol Martin

01-17-2004 08:03:55




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 Re: Ford 1500 with box blade I have a grading prob in reply to Oscar M, 01-16-2004 15:56:46  
Hi Oscar: I had the same problem with washboard driveway. Here is my solution to the problem and I must say that it really works great. The wheels hold the blade at the level of what was just scraped. and when the tractor wheels drop into a hole the blade does not follow and dig a new hole behind the one you dropped into. A couple of passes and my driveway is completely smooth..If you want more detailed pics let me know and I will e-mail them to you.

Carol

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Cap-N-ID

01-17-2004 09:00:22




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 Re: Re: Ford 1500 with box blade I have a grading in reply to Carol Martin, 01-17-2004 08:03:55  
HI Carol -- Those "wheels" you have are called "grade wheels" in the constructions industry and are an excellent solution to the problem posted by Oscar. Did you put them together yourself ? I couldn't tell from the picture if yours are adjustable but most guys make the "post" a couple of inches longer than minimum so they can adjust the wheels up and down to set the depth of cut. (adjust with spacers or washers on the "post") They are useful on more than just box blades. I have made them for my rock rake and the brush hog. (put them on the front corners of the brush hog to keep the corners from diggin in when working on rough hilly terrain) The only advantage of a good heavy drag is the ability to pull it at an angle to the road in order to move the material back and forth ACROSS the road. But a box blade with grade wheels works great for finish work and "cleaning up" washboard and would definately solve Oscar's problem. A toss-up as to which would be the least expensive solution. Depends on what he has in his scrap pile to work with. --Cap--

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Carol Martin

01-17-2004 11:04:40




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 Re: Re: Re: Ford 1500 with box blade I have a grad in reply to Cap-N-ID, 01-17-2004 09:00:22  
Yes I made these myself piece of 3"chanel Iron and couple of Front wheels from an old riding mower. Welded brackets to rear of box blade and another set welded to my regular blade. Four bolts and they are easily removed and swapped back and fourth..They also work great on the blade for plowing snow. Keeps the edge up just a little. No need to adjust the height of the wheels.. Just adjust the top link and that will raise and lower the blade..

Carol

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Cap-N-ID

01-17-2004 14:31:06




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Ford 1500 with box blade I have a in reply to Carol Martin, 01-17-2004 11:04:40  
Nice job Carol -- on the different sets I've made for my equipment I needed a wider range of adjustment than just the top link would provide. I suppose there may be some place we could buy gauge wheels "ready-made" but I prefer making all my own stuff. Get it just the way I want it that way !! On most of my "serious" road building, grading, digging and such, I use my heavier equipment -- tractor, grader, roller, backhoe, rippers, etc., it would be a bit much to ask of the 8N, but I do so enjoy occasionally taking the 8N out to "play around". I call it my "yard tractor". It's a great "ole Gal". The most simple, basic machine possible, but capable and endearing for just those reasons, and "playing" with it just takes me back. Happy tractoring to you. --Cap--

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EDDIE8N

01-18-2004 09:16:14




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Ford 1500 with box blade I hav in reply to Cap-N-ID, 01-17-2004 14:31:06  
Cap,
An easy way to make more adjustment is to weld a heavy-duty caster wheel assembly on the bottom of a screw type trailer jack.
If you mount a jack on each end with the weld-on mounts, they can easily be removed by pulling the pins.
This gives 6" or more of adjustment.
For what it's worth,
EDDIE8N



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Cap-N-ID

01-18-2004 12:03:24




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Ford 1500 with box blade I in reply to EDDIE8N, 01-18-2004 09:16:14  
GREAT IDEA Eddie -- Wish I had thought of it before I built mine. I could just have welded my pneumatic wheel/fork assembly right on the bottom of the screw or on the bottom leg of one of those trailer tongue jacks that use a rack and pinion system for height adjustment. Some of those also have the ability to just pivot up out of the way using a spring loaded pin to hold it either up or down. Always said that there's no design, NOTHING, that can't be improved upon !! Next set I build will definately be "improved". Thanks for sharing. --Cap--

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Cap-N-ID

01-16-2004 17:22:17




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 Re: Ford 1500 with box blade I have a grading prob in reply to Oscar M, 01-16-2004 15:56:46  
Oscar -- It's really difficult to grade out ripples with a box scraper for two reasons. 1. the ripples are at 90 degrees to the road and so is your box scraper. 2. Picture the tractor with box scraper attached as a teeter-totter, with the rear wheels as the pivot point. Every time the front wheels go up over a ripple the box scraper goes down and vice versa -- to get a level roadway you have to compensate for this rise and fall of the blade by constantly working the 3-point up and down -- not easy to do. Since you don't have an angleable rear blade the best solution short of using an actual grader (the extra long wheelbase is there for a reason !) is to use a drag attached and pulled by chain. The drag stays on the ground even though the tractor is pitching up and down. Any number of things can be used to make an effective drag. Two or three 8 to 10 foot pieces of old "I" beam from the scrap yard, some lengths of railroad track, some hunks of channel iron (edges down), anything that will scrape or cut. If you have access to a welder, weld the pieces parallel and weigh them down. The more weight the better it will cut. If you can't weld it up just chain it up in a bundle. When you chain it to the tractor do two things. 1. Connect it to a point below the rear axle centerline. (prevents tractor backflips if it hangs up on something) 2. Chain your "drag" so that it is pulling along at something like a 30 degree angle to your direction of travel. This angling of the drag causes the loose material cut from the ridges of the ripples to be drug and spilled into the valleys. Make multiple passes in both directions and with the final passes angled so as to drag the loose material back from the edges of the road into the center. When you get the road smooth enough to suit you it's VERY IMPORTANT to pack it down some how. A nice heavy vibratory roller would be just great but if you had one of those you'd probably have a grader to do the job with too, so improvise. Lots of folks just put a good load in the back of their pickup and drive up and down until they think it's packed "well enough". One more thing -- do all this work when the road is pretty well damp or wet, down two or three inches. (spring, late fall, or after a good soaking rain) When the road is dry you're pretty much wasteing your time because you'll mostly be just pushing any gravel there is around a bit. Even a good Cat 12 grader has a hard time cutting down the washboard in a really dry road -- voice of experience -- have had the blade far enough down on mine to lift and keep the front wheels all the way off the road and the blade still just skidding along the top of the washboard with very little effect. Do your dragging/grading when the road is wet, take you time, watch what is occuring and you'll do just fine. --Cap--

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Steve(OR)

01-16-2004 16:11:51




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 Re: Ford 1500 with box blade I have a grading prob in reply to Oscar M, 01-16-2004 15:56:46  
Sounds like you don't have enough loose material to fill in the ripples. As your boxblade makes a pass it must be just riding over the crests of the waves rather than shaving them off like a straight blade could. You could add material. Or You could mine your own by using a boxblade with rippers set deep enough to chew up the ripples and create some loose material. If you just add material without breaking up the ripples though it will probably just get thrown to the side by traffic.

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