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Ford 9N, 2N & 8N Discussion Forum
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Head and work light revisited

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rayheflin@springmail.com

01-20-2004 05:15:10




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Well..... ...after about 10 mins. of use, the toggle I install for the lights burned out. I looked for a amp rating on the switch before installing but it was not listed. Figgered that the parts man would have sold me one big enough knowing what I was going to use it for. Wired around toggle and worked about 2 more hours last-nite. Ignition switch held fine but will install relay to lessen load on it. (thanks Dell and Jim) I will return toggle when I have time to remove it and it will be interesting to see if parts house will give me credit on it for more parts. I know that standard policy is not to return electrical parts but, I can clearly see that I was sold wrong part. Or am I not taking my ignorance into account here. Does anyone know what the amp load of two head and one work light is? Dell, will the relay you suggested handle load of three lights? How many amps will be required to close relay? This is where the toggle to turn lights on and off should be installed, right? Thanks for your help guys..... .E. Ray

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souNdguy

01-20-2004 06:05:58




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 Re: Head and work light revisited in reply to rayheflin@springmail.com, 01-20-2004 05:15:10  
I don't know if you are on 12v system or 6v, but will throw this out. Add your total wattage on that circuit, and then divide it by the voltage.. that will be amps.

for instance.. (3) 55w 12v lamps is 165w... thats 13.75 amps... I would use a 20 amp automotive relay (SPST).. they are cheap and can be found on the shelf at nearly all auto parts stores for adding foglamps.. etc...

Fuse with a 15A SB or a 20A FA fuse... might get away with a 15A FA, just depends on the surge current.. and if you turn on all 3 lights at the same time.. or the 2 first then the rear.

Pull in current for the relay will be low..I'm guessing less than half amp.. more like 300ma I would guess. That's the nice things about the relay... small wire and switch to control the realy.. and install the relay close to the load/power source.. less money in big wires.


now if this is a 6v system.. and you are using say (3) 35w lamps.. that is 17.5 amps...
Again.. use a 20A FA if you can get away with it.. or if not a 20A SB.. and as a last choice.. a 25 FA. For a relay.. ( SPST ) you might have to get somehting for a volkswagon?.. etc.. just make sure its contacts are rated at 20A.

If you have other light or load combinations.. just figure out as above.. formula for ohm's law is :

E x I = P
P / I = E
P / E = I
I x R = E
E / I = R

Where E is voltage, P is power (watts), I is current ( amps ), and R is (DC ) resitance ( ohms )..


Soundguy

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steve

01-20-2004 19:41:49




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 Re: Re: Head and work light revisited in reply to souNdguy, 01-20-2004 06:05:58  
Keep in mind that this is the series not the parallel formulas.

steve



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souNdguy

01-20-2004 20:00:00




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 Re: Re: Re: Head and work light revisited in reply to steve, 01-20-2004 19:41:49  
Makes no difference here ( this is basic ohms' law, and is applicable as to the needs of determining fuse, wire and relay ratings.. we aren't worrying about parallel resistance values .. i.e., two 10 ohm resistors in parallel make a 5 ohm..( twice the watt rating.. ) etc..and as a general rule of thumb.. paralleling 2 resistors of different values produces a resistor of less ohms than the lower of the two individual resistors... ). For instance..(3) 55 watt lights .. wired in parallel, are going to have a total power disipation of 165 watts, and draw 13.75 amps total for that circuit, at the relay.. True.. each individual light is only drawing a little over 4.5 amps, and 55 watts, etc.. but we are trying to determin max circuit load for the purposs of sizing the feed wire, and relay specs. Makes no difference if they are wired phisically parallel off of each other, or are merely tied together at the relay contact.. electrically the same effect.. you still add the total wattage / current draw, etc, as they parallel at the source, and will be supplied current via a contact in the relay that will have to be rated for the total load...

That said.. I don't seen any need to amend my previous message.

Soundguy

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Jeb2N

01-20-2004 06:42:10




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 Re: Re: Head and work light revisited in reply to souNdguy, 01-20-2004 06:05:58  
My exact as original 2N headlight switch (including rear lamps) included a glass 20A fuse for what it's worth.



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Dell (WA)

01-20-2004 08:15:18




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 Re: Re: Re: Head and work light revisited in reply to Jeb2N, 01-20-2004 06:42:10  
Jeb..... ...always wondered what the p/n B-14526 OEM fuse ratings was, 20 amps, eh?

Kinda interesting, my N-Ford MPC will list bolts with thread specs and lengths along with the p/n's, but won't list electrical stuff specs; Like battery is p/n 2N-10655-C, 13 plate, domestic. (NLA) Who wooda gussted its a 6 volter, size 1A? 'course meybe never figgered on 12 volt batterys nether..... ...Dell



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souNdguy

01-20-2004 07:52:56




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 Re: Re: Re: Head and work light revisited in reply to Jeb2N, 01-20-2004 06:42:10  
That confitms it then..That would be closes as possible as they could get. I'm guessing they had 35 watt lamps.. and 3 of them came in at around 17.5 amps.. so....

Soundguy



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Chris Brown

01-20-2004 05:23:47




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 Re: Head and work light revisited in reply to rayheflin@springmail.com, 01-20-2004 05:15:10  
I had a bad wire in the metal tube going to the rear light.It'd work a while then burn the switch out. I think a 10 amp relay would be more than enough,but fuse it.



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