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Ford 9N, 2N & 8N Discussion Forum
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Help w/ hydrolics

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Phil (USNY)

02-14-2004 15:02:04




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hydro's not going down. or control lever not working. I just took the plate off under the seat. when I slid it off.. vary carefully... the piston inside the cylinder stayed in the cylinder.. Is the piston suppose to be attached to the rod that i pulled out with the cover? I hope it will EASY TO put back together.. but it doesn’t look like it.




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Joe (IN)

02-14-2004 17:30:35




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 Re: Help w/ hydrolics in reply to Phil (USNY), 02-14-2004 15:02:04  
Don't take this the wrong way, but there's no tactful way to say this, Phil. I think you kinda screwed up. While it is necessary to pull the lift cover off for many hydraulic repairs, simple troubleshooting can pinpoint the problem with only minor disassembly. Typically, the inspection cover on the right side of the tractor is removed so that the pump, linkage, ram and other parts can be observed while the engine is running and the lift is operating. With the cover off, you're going to be essentially guessing.

Most of the time, a lift that is stuck in the up position either has a stuck exhaust valve in the pump or some serious linkage adjustment issues. It's going to be tough to tell you exactly what to look for without knowing what model tractor you are working on. The 9N/2N, 8N, and NAA all had similar ram and rocker designs but each had a totally different linkage and pump setup. You'll have to give us a little more info before we can be of much help.


That said, the answer to your question is no. The piston free-floats in the bore of the cylinder and just pushes on the piston. Gravity pulls sown on the lift arms and the linkage and then forces the piston back down the bore when the touch control lever is pushed down and the exhaust valve in the pump opens.

As far as reassembly goes, it's no picnic to back back together, but it's not extremely difficult either. It's a whole lot easier to do with 2 people. Best way I've seen is to cut the heads off of four 7/16" bolts and thread then into the housing to use as alingment pins. Lower the cover down over the pins while an assistant lines up and engages the linkage. The exact procedure varies a bit between the models.

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Phil

02-14-2004 19:21:58




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 Re: Re: Help w/ hydrolics in reply to Joe (IN), 02-14-2004 17:30:35  
1946 ford 2n...its been stuck for a wile i just havent had time to fix it.. also when i took out one of the middle bolts ne the plate the rear arms un jammed and went down.. i kinda find it wierd. thanks for the help



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Joe (IN)

02-15-2004 07:16:12




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 Re: Re: Re: Help w/ hydrolics in reply to Phil, 02-14-2004 19:21:58  
I agree with Eddie. Not weird at all. The oil was trapped in the cylinder and when you loosened the cylinder bolts, the seal was broken and released the oil. What that does say about your lift is that the ram cylinder, piston and o-ring or rings are in pretty good shape or else it would have bled down by now. Your check valve in your pump must be in pretty good shape as well. That'll save you headaches and some money. You've either got a linkage or valve problem. I've not had a 9N/2N lift mechanism apart yet, but from the shop manuals I've read and the chatter here, it seems to be common for the linkage to become disengaged if you push backwards just right with a mounted implement like a blade. That may have been all that was wrong. Been pushing any snow? I'm leaning that way since you pulled the cover off without any mention of running into resistance from the linkage still being attached. My advice? Since the cover is off, go ahead and drain the oil. Wash the reservoir and pump base out good with diesel fuel or kerosene. They're usually full of sludge and this is a really good time to do it. Find the valve assembly on the pump and make sure that it moves in and out freely. Get a lift cover repair gasket set and put it all back together. Pull the inspection cover off the right side and reconnect your linkage through the hole. Check to see that it moves freely and is moving the valve when you move the touch control lever. Go ahead and refill the lift with oil until it reaches the bottom inspection cover bolt hole. Start the tractor and try the lift. If it still doesn't work right, watch through the inspection cover hole and try to isolate the problem. As the others mentioned, an I&T FO-4 shop manual is a must when doing any serious work on an "N". It'll explain everything in detail. These tractors are Mickey Mouse simple, but the FO-4 takes all the mystery out of the inner workings before you even pick up a wrench. They are available at just about any farm supply store or on the web. Good luck!

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EDDIE8N

02-15-2004 05:54:40




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 Re: Re: Re: Help w/ hydrolics in reply to Phil, 02-14-2004 19:21:58  
Phil,
The four middle bolts hold your cylinder to the top cover. Your cyl receives oil under pressure through a port in the top cover. When you loosened the bolt, it must have loosened the cyl enough to let oil escape from the cylinder, thus letting your arms go down.
That being said, I would guess the problem in the release valve not functioning properly, or in the linkage...not opening the valve.
HTH,
EDDIE8N

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don t.-9n180179

02-15-2004 03:40:43




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 Re: Re: Re: Help w/ hydrolics in reply to Phil, 02-14-2004 19:21:58  
If you don't have one, I would suggest the I&T FO-4 shop manual. The master parts catalog is also nice to have. If I remember right, on of Zane's posts mentioned 4 fine thread bolts/nuts on the lift cover. These hold the lift cyl to the cover. On my 45 2N, someone had put the nut side up, so it was easy for me to tell the difference.

As the other post stated, its not that hard to do, and im a rookie. 2 people/cherry picker would have been nice, but it can be done alone. Good luck...don t. ...

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