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Ok.. just for you.. special blow by blow breakdown of the schematic. As Dell mentioned what you see as 52 is S2.. meaning switch 2.. headlight switch. 51 as you see it is S1, which is switch 1, ignition switch. First.. positige ground.. meaning battery positive cable hooks to tractor frame. Battery negative goes to the big stud on the solenoid that is closest to the back of the tractor..( the small third stud MUST point toward the tractor )
Just to clarify.. the other big stud on the solenoid.. then jumps right over to the stud on the starter.. most have a heavy copper strip doing this. Ok.. back to that first big stud the battery - is hooked to.. add another wire.. this goes to the ammeter. in one terminal.. out the other... from there to the bottom terminal or the resistor block..a wire from there to the ignition switch, The other wire from the ignition switch to one of the top terminals on the resistor. From the other top terminal on the resistor, a wire goes to the ignition coil. That is the basics for the ifnition system. Regulator hookup is easy.. Armature ( the big stud on back of the genny ) goes to the arm connection on the regulator..( old regulators may say gen for generator instead of arm for armature. ) there will be a field terminal on the casing of the genny.. it will be insulated from the case by a rubber /plastic or phenolic washer.. that goes to the field on the regulator. There will also be a ground stud on the genny casing.. that goes to the regulators ground reference tab. The regulator will have a batt tab.. this is the 'charge out' to the tractors electrical system... it goes to that bottom terminal on the wire block where your ammeter is also wired to. At this point.. you need to polarize the genny... momemtarilly jumper the arm and batt terminals together at the regulator.. there will be a small spark.. it is normal. Assuming all your equipment is working.. and you wired it right.. it should run and charge.. ammeter should show an initially high charge to charge back up after starting.. then it should taper off to 3-4 amps for ignition. Take a voltage reading on the battery.. should be in the 7.xx range somewhere. If your ammeter is wired backwards accidentially.. you may see the reverse of what I said.. a large swing negative that tapers off to a small negative amount... If you are sure it is charging 9 voltmeter across battery.. voltage at 7.xx ) then just reverse how you have your ammeter hooked up.. Lights... these don't need to be complicated. Add a wire at that third terminal on the wire block again.. the one that has the ammeter and the genny batt line hooked to it... run this wire to a heavy duty light switch.. type doesn't matter.. push/pull / toggle.. etc.. just get one rated for the amps you need ( hint.. a single 35 watt lamp uses about 6 amps.. a single 55 watt lamp uses about 9 amps ( 6v lamps.. etc.. 35 watt is most common.. 2 lmaps is 12 amps.. a third ( rear ) lamp makes that 18 amps. Most good light switches have a fuse holder... use a slow blow 20 amp fues.. or a 25 amp fuse if you go all 3 lights..or a 15 amp fuse for 2 lights..
Also.. most light kits are made to ground via the sheet metal.. and then have a single wire for power. I always run a ground wire to each light to make sure they have good ground.. My sheet metal has been on and off my tractor so much that I don't trust it to make a good ground thru paint, etc. Just choose a bolt on the steering colum.. or batter box ( batter ground at box? ) and run that wire over to the area you mount hte light.. add a big ring terminal connector.. and bolt your light thru it at the sheetmetal.. tighten down.. hook up power to the lights and yer off. Soundguy
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