2N spark gear box fluid

While trying to fix a number of things on her, I checked the dipstick on the right side below the seat (for the differential fluid?) and noticed that a couple things:

A) The dipstick rattles around loose in the tube -- should there be a seal or something that keeps it secure and prevents debris from entering?

B) The dipstick was dry. Where do I add fluid to this gear box? I didn't see any obvious fill holes, other than putting a very small funnel through the dipstick tube. What kind of fluid should I be adding, and how much would it take if it were completely empty?

B) Lots of posts about what kind of fluid to use and how to change it. Only thing I would add is that I wouldn't add to fluid I knew nothing about but would drain it and start over.

Your mileaga may vary

What/where is the pump?

Will 75W90 gear oil work (it's cheap & readily available), or must I track down some straight 90W?

Draining & starting over sounds like a good idea, as does the electrical tape to seal the dip stick.

This oil reservoir handles both the transmission and differential, correct? But not the engine, obviously. Are there any other oil reservoirs that I should be checking? The oil bath air filter is broken & being replaced with a K&N conical air filter

Someone posted a good spec sheet from penziol on this a few days ago.. aluded to the fact that gl-5 does indeed attack yellow metal. ( bushings in the system ).

90wt mineral oil gl-1 is easy to come by. TSC sells it, and marks it as for ford tractors 1939-1952... blue/black pail.
Napa has a 90wt gl-1.. so does wallmart in certain geographical areas.

If your rubber shifter boot is bad.. replace it. Email us back when you go to replace it.. we'll give you the tricks that work.. you will know what I mean if you try to replace it without asking..he he he

Filler is on the tranny cover..

Soundguy

My shifter boot is shot -- it fell off today as I was looking at it. What's the trick? I'm assuming that I have to remove the shifter somehow.

Do you have a wallmart nearby? They sell a universal transdraulic oil that does meet the 134d spec. So does car quest.. TSC, and anyone carrying fina products has a uni-tran oil that also meets those specs.

No.. don't have to remove the shifter.. but you do have to finagle with the bot a bit.

First of all.. on the boot.. think of it as a cylinder sleave.. 'interference fit'.. etc

2 prevailing methods have arisin. 1, is if you have a castration / tail docking tool ( calves / lambs.. etc ) that spreads those real tiny rubber bands... it has 4 tongs that you can use to spread the boot over the 'seat' on the shifter.

2nd and possibly easier for those without the tool, is to boil a pan of water.. take off the burner, and pop the rubber boot in. Walk out to the tractor that already has a cleaned up boot area... then fish the boot out of the water.. and slide it on.. should be pliable enough to go eash.. berhaps a bluntscrewdriver may halp.. etc.

Soundguy