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Ford 9N, 2N & 8N Discussion Forum
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2N carb problems

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Obi-Wan

03-23-2004 17:20:17




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My grandparents have a 1943 2N that they've owned for most of its life (they've had it as long as my Dad, born in '45, can remember). It sees light duty grading the gravel lane, sometimes mowing the pasture, and plowing the lane (on the odd occasion that the tractor will start in the winter). I've got a number of questions, but I'll post them in separate messages to keep the topics separate.

The carb on this gal is a M-S with the following cast into an aluminum(?) ID plate: TSX1151 241B
Am I correct in assuming that this is a later-model carb, originally built for the 8N in 1950? When I'm looking for a rebuild kit, do I tell them the carb is a "TSX 241B"?

Anyway, my dad paid a guy to R&R this tractor a few years ago, but it's running like crap again, so I'm looking into it. The tractor starts just fine when it's cold, but you have to keep the choke on in order to keep it running, and you can hardly put any load on the tractor or it'll die. The warmer the engine gets, the less likely it is to keep running when you restart it. It sounds like a carb problem, but I'm not ruling out electrical problems (see a previous post).

I checked the idle & main mixture screws. The main screw is 1.6 turns out, which sounds about right based on a couple rebuild articles I've read. The idle screw was only out about 80% of a turn, which seems to be not far enough. I haven't fiddled with them with the engine running yet, since that's a 2-man job.

The sediment bowl looks pretty clean inside.

I haven't disconnected any part of the fuel delivery system yet, pending repairs on some other stuff. I don't want to pay for a rebuild kit if I don't really need one.

Does it sound like my problems are carb related? Could it be that the mixture screws aren't set right, or might the carb need a complete rebuild? Could this problem be due to something else, like dying spark plug wires or a coil?

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Upper Peninsula, Mi.

03-23-2004 19:17:03




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 Re: 2N carb problems in reply to Obi-Wan, 03-23-2004 17:20:17  
OBi-Wan. It certainly souunds like a carb problem. However, the first thing I would do is check to determine if you have a good spark at the plugs. If it hasn't been run much for the past few years, take of the front mount distributor and either clean the points and regap them to 15 thousands or put in new points and Condenser. They are cheap and it is an easy job. Then take off the fuel line at the carb and take out the filter and clean it, then clean the filter in the bowl under the gas tank. You also have one in the tank just above the fuel bowl. Normally this will do it unless you have other problems, like a dirty carb or wire connections that need cleaning. Your talking maybe two hours work. Have fun. Ron

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Dell (WA)

03-23-2004 18:02:47




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 Re: 2N carb problems in reply to Obi-Wan, 03-23-2004 17:20:17  
Obi-Wan..... ..the original 2N carb was M/S TSX-33, but you can use the TSX-241. The basic carb kit fits eather ($20 cheap)

Ford recommends 1-turn for BOTH the idle-mixture and main-jet. I recommend adjusting yer 2N's M/S carb this way. Adjust the down-pointing mainjet to 1-1/2 turns and leavitt. Adjust the side-pointing idlemixture for max rpms, NOT smoothest idle, MAX rpms, understand? Remember yer N-Idle is a SLOOOooow 400 rpms throttle set behind the carb. Also remember yer idlemixture is BASSACKWARDS, out for lean, in for enrich. My idle mixture is usually about 3/8 turn.

Theres a possiblility that your idle and main jets are installed backwards (they have the same thread). Idle is 0.024 and main is 0.073 (#49 drill). You can use a 1/16" (0.0625) drillbit as a go/no-go gauge for quick verification..... ....Dell

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Bruce (VA)

03-23-2004 17:47:19




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 Re: 2N carb problems in reply to Obi-Wan, 03-23-2004 17:20:17  
From the limited use this tractor is getting, my guess is that you have a gummed up & dirty carb. Pull it down, clean it out, soak it well in cleaner, then blow out every orifice with an air gun. If you are very careful when you take it apart, you will not tear the gasket, and you can put it all back together. Check this site for rebuilding tips; just follow the instructions for assemby & disassembly and you won't have any problems. And, if you get in it and find a problem, seems to me that kits w/o a float go for $15. Once you have it cleaned up, then start with the adjustments.

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