Welcome! Please use the navigational links to explore our website.
PartsASAP LogoCompany Logo Auction Link (800) 853-2651

Shop Now

   Allis Chalmers Case Farmall IH Ford 8N,9N,2N Ford
   Ferguson John Deere Massey Ferguson Minn. Moline Oliver

Ford 9N, 2N & 8N Discussion Forum
:

Governor Disassembly

Welcome Guest, Log in or Register
Author 
Obi-Wan

03-29-2004 15:55:25




Report to Moderator

I've got the governor from my '43 2N stitting on my workbench. The inner lever is terribly loose, so I need to remove the lever shaft fromt he housing. I've got the driveshaft/balls/gears removed already. The FO-4 manual says to drive the tapered pin out of the fork on the lever shaft. I can see the pin, but when I tried to drive it out backward by inserting a punch through the screw hole in the back of the case, I bent the punch before I moved the pin. I've soaked it down repeatedly with carb cleaner and PB Blaster.

Am I trying to drive the pin out the correct way? It looks like it was driven in from the front of the governor, but I could be wrong. Am I missing something, or is this pin just really stubborn? I'm hesitant to pre-heat the fork, since everything in there is cast.

Is this pin re-usable, or do I need to get a governor rebuild kit before I can reassemble this thing?

Another related question -- how do you remove the big gear and bearing from the end of the driveshaft?

[Log in to Reply]   [No Email]
Joe (IN)

03-29-2004 18:23:29




Report to Moderator
 Re: Governor Disassembly in reply to Obi-Wan, 03-29-2004 15:55:25  
You are doing everything exactly the way you are supposed to. That pin isn't exactly easy to get out. I've bent a punch or three myself trying to get them to give. Be patient and it will come. Make sure you are using the correct size punch and that you are lined up straight on it before you give it a wallop. I haven't had to resort to heat yet. I'd be a little leary of cooking the needle bearing or melting the case.

Yes, the pin is reusable.

You have to press the shaft out of the gear to get to the bearing. I've got a press, but a crafty guy should be able to rig up a decent sized bench vise to press it apart.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Jeb2N

03-29-2004 18:20:36




Report to Moderator
 Re: Governor Disassembly in reply to Obi-Wan, 03-29-2004 15:55:25  
If i'm not mistaken, i beleive you are trying to drive the pin out of the fork correctly. You should be able to look at it and tell that one end is slightly larger. It would be awfully difficult to hold that pin and drive it back in through the oil hole in the back...I beleive I drove it out through the hole in the back and back in from the top as you say.

You can shim your inner arm using soda/beer cans cut to length. Remember that you don't have to go all the way around the circle...just enough to make it fit good and still move. I think my new shim wraps around about 65% of the way and it feels good again. As for the bearing and gear, I believe they are pressed on. I didn't do anything with them when I went through my gov. I just replaced the balls, cupped race, thrust bearing and shims. Everything else looked good. don't forget to true up your gasket mating surfaces with some emory cloth and a piece of glass or really flat (machined) metal.

Jeb

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Obi-Wan

03-29-2004 20:04:48




Report to Moderator
 Re: Re: Governor Disassembly in reply to Jeb2N, 03-29-2004 18:20:36  
Well, thanks... I guess. I was kinda hoping for some great revelation that would make this pin come out easier.

I've got a gear puller that would probably remove that gear, but getting it back on could be a problem. How tight is the main bearing supposed to be? Any wobble at all? Mine does a little.

As for the gasket, I was planning to just use a bead of RTV instead of replacing the old cork gasket. Any reason this won't work?

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Jeb2N

03-30-2004 03:32:05




Report to Moderator
 Re: Re: Re: Governor Disassembly in reply to Obi-Wan, 03-29-2004 20:04:48  
I faced (resurfaced) my gasket surface for the governor on the side of my bench grinder stone so that it was perfectly flat. I went to put it back on using RTV like you said and I still had leaks. The shell is aluminum and bends and warps easily. Once I took it off, I used two gaskets with gasket sealer and will find out soon if this has worked or not.

It's okay to have a little wobble on the small thrust bearing as it rides kinda loose anywya, but the main bearing should not have wobble in it.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
[Options]  [Printer Friendly]  [Posting Help]  [Return to Forum]   [Log in to Reply]

Hop to:


TRACTOR PARTS TRACTOR MANUALS
We sell tractor parts!  We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]

Home  |  Forums


Copyright © 1997-2023 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy

TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters

Website Accessibility Policy