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O.T. - Gravel Driveway help

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RuintTX

04-01-2004 18:28:35




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Got my lower lift arm problem fixed, pulling the trumpet was not a lot of fun, but as you guys advised, retorquing the nut and a new cotter pin was all that was needed. Now the "city kid" has another question. I need to re-gravel my driveway. About 500' by 10' -- presently graveled, but lots missing. I have been told that #1 clean(small -1/2" I think) is the best way to go because it will pack in, but it looks to me like it will stick in street tire treads. But the bigger stuff just looks wrong. I have a box blade for spreading it out, I just have no clue what to put on top of this other stuff, which seems to be a mix of medium to large gravel. There is very little traffic on this driveway -- 2 maybe 3 cars a day. I don't want to continuously repeat this project, so the cost is not important. But, I will not blacktop or concrete it. Drainage is not an issue either. As always, thanks in advance, this board has has never let me down. - RuintTx

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Cap-N-ID

04-02-2004 11:35:42




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 Re: O.T. - Gravel Driveway help in reply to RuintTX, 04-01-2004 18:28:35  
I second (third?) what Dell and Steve said. Lay what we call "3/4 minus" crush. Have the Dump truck spread it "on the fly" about two inches thick. If it takes a little "cleaning up" use a rock rake to dress it. Keep it mostly towards the middle as it will spread out further to the edges with use. After you have it spread to your satisfaction drive your car/truck over it in a different track each time you use the dirveway until it is well packed down. Crush packs better than "pit-run" because the broken edges of crushed rock grip better than the rounded edges of pit-run. Each year, in the spring, take your back blade and pull the edges back up to the middle and re-spread with your rock rake. Once you get the hang of it it's a simple fun exercise and your drive will look great.
--Cap--

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R.M. In AL

04-01-2004 19:55:53




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 Re: O.T. - Gravel Driveway help in reply to RuintTX, 04-01-2004 18:28:35  
Ruint,I have done this for the last 35 years,and from what you say,you already have the large and small there but some is missing.You need the size that will choke up the large and for driveways a #7 is best.Also since you have some there do not put more than 2 inches down or it will just whip off.According to the figures you need about 30 yards..I would not use the crusher run or the one with lots of dust in it..Let us know how you do it,and how it turned out.Good luck..R.M. In AL.

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Dell (WA)

04-01-2004 19:40:14




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 Re: O.T. - Gravel Driveway help in reply to RuintTX, 04-01-2004 18:28:35  
Ruint..... ....let yer gravel dumptruck spread yer crushed gravel thru a gapped tailgate DUMP. They know how and its so much eazier than draggin' and spreadin' gravel from a pile. Ask yer gravel supplier what gravel they recommend. Its a common requirement by whole lottta places. You need at least 2" thick, or it won't pack. And at 2-trips a day, it will last a looonng time, as long as you don't go speeding down the lane scattering gravel everywhere..... ...Dell

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Pitch

04-01-2004 18:58:27




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 Re: O.T. - Gravel Driveway help in reply to RuintTX, 04-01-2004 18:28:35  
We use limestone here also 'cept we call it crush of run or contractor mix. Everything from fines to #2s in it. Lay down about 4 inches over a good base and roll it down by wetting it and driving over it. Every few years you do have to add more tho and the small stuff will sometimes hang in the tires. Never saw a problem with that just the way things are unless you pave or pour concrete.



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EDDIE8N

04-01-2004 18:54:11




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 Re: O.T. - Gravel Driveway help in reply to RuintTX, 04-01-2004 18:28:35  
RuintTX,
I would recommend what we here in Pa refer to as 2A modified. It is a mix of 1/2" to 3/4" stone and has a lot of fines in it. Will pack in like concrete over time if it is applied properly and compacted. The fines help hold the larger stone in place, which helps eliminate the problem of them sticking in your tire treads.
#1 (1/4") is usually refered to as "clean stone" meaning it does not have the fines. So is 2B stone which is 3/4" "clean stone".
Clean stone is used mainly for drainage, such as footer drains around houses, and septic fields, etc. By not having the "fines" mixed in, it lets the water travel through it much easier promoting better drainage.
Didn't mean to write a thesis on stone gradations, but wanted to say enough to try to help.
HTH,
EDDIE8N

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SteveB(wi)

04-01-2004 18:42:26




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 Re: O.T. - Gravel Driveway help in reply to RuintTX, 04-01-2004 18:28:35  
I got news for you, gravel driveways need maintence. How often usually depends on things like slope, drainage etc. Most good granular pavements are made of different sized rock to interlock. If you were starting from scratch you would put down large 2" - 3" first and cover with smaller graded on top. Here in limestone country we would put crushed 1/2" or 3/4" TB (traffic bond) on top. This is a mix of all the stuff from the size called out down to dust. A good place to start would be talking to your rock supplier wether that be the quarry directly or a hauling out fit and see what they recommend locally as the best product for the cost. I also have seen excellent results from recycled crushed concrete. It's about all we use for gravel in the municipal road business around here where there are at least 4 crushers in town.

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