Found this... thought it was very clearly written and might help some of us 12v converties.----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- -- From: Terry Thompson Subject: Re: Coils and Ballast Resistors Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 19:40:04 -0800 ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- -- That article by masters confuses a lot of people (me included at one time). It is absolutely correct, but the terminology and way it is written is confusing if you're not following the train of thought. So lets break it down: WHAT IS A COIL? A coil is basically a storage unit for energy. Electrons build-up in the windings via power supplied by the secondaries. When the circuit is completed by breaker points OR by the electronic ignition, the primary winding charge is released in a momentary discharge that has built-up over those micro-seconds. This is how you get 40k volts from a 12v source. When the points or electronic ignition opens the circuit, the process repeats. NOT ALL COILS ARE MADE THE SAME There are two major types of coils: Ballast coils and non-ballast coils. Here's the tricky part. You might think a ballast coil means it HAS a ballast..that would be incorrect. Simply put: A ballast coil REQUIRES a ballast resistor. A non-ballast coil is designed to NOT use a ballast resistor. You following me so far? If not. Re-read the above until it makes perfect sense. WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE? A non-ballast coil has an internal resistance built into it's windings, so that as voltage increases, voltage capacity drops off. (This is a lucas sport coil which Dan is describing requires the bypass). Conversely A ballast coil (remember, this is the coil which requires a ballast resistor), does not have this internal resistance built into its windings. Whatever you pump into this thing will be multiplied like a transformer. So, if the coil is designed to receive 6v via a voltage drop from a ballast resistor, and you start pumping 12v into it, at high RPMS, instead of getting 40k volts, you will get 80k+ volts. Now, I don't know which Mallory coil you have. I know there is a chrome coil for electronic ignitions and another one for points ignitions. I happen to have the Mallory breaker points ignition type (model 29217) on my car and it is a ballast coil. And states very clearly in the instructions DO NOT REMOVE THE BALLAST RESISTOR. IF THE VEHICLE DOES NOT HAVE A BALLAST RESISTOR, INSTALL MALLORY PART #700 (a ballast resistor) SUMMARY If you decide to by-pass the ballast resistor on a ballast coil regardless of directions, YOU WILL: 1) Increase the voltage to as much as 80k volts at high rpms! 2) Possibly destroy your coil 3) Burn out your condensor every time your tac hits ~4000 rpm 4) lasty but not leastly, go through breaker points like a fat man through a box of jelly donuts. Conversely, if you run a ballast resistor after installing a non-ballast coil, very little will change at low rpms. But at your higher rpms, the voltage will decrease dramatically and you will most likely have a very weak spark. -Terry *** >Link Your messages not reaching the list? Check out>Link ***>Link unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try *** >Link ***>Link >Link ***>Link Archives at>Link ***>Link Edit your replies!
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