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Ford 9N, 2N & 8N Discussion Forum
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Recommendations on Eng. Rebuild Kit?

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Phil B.

04-06-2004 22:29:06




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I am finishing the tear down of an 8n engine that sat for nearly 20 yrs. Had oil in the pan and everything internal looks good (no rust). One valve is stuck. Other than that it looks like a solid rebuild candidate. Now the question: What should I be looking for in a rebuild kit? Do they all come with valves and valve springs? Oil pump rebuid parts?

I'm looking for any nuggets of wisdom from those who have been there, done that. I read here to replace the head studs with cap bolts so the head can be removed without taking the hood off. I tore the studs out tonight. Any helpful tips like this would be appreciated.

I plan on taking the block, head and pan to get boiled out. I'll most likely have the same shop check the crank and cam. Should I have the shop check anything else? I'll be doing the sleeve install and reassembly. I'll probably have more questions....


Thanks,

Phil B.

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Karen

04-08-2004 04:30:41




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 Re: Recommendations on Eng. Rebuild Kit? in reply to Phil B., 04-06-2004 22:29:06  
I know where you can get your answers. Email me and I'll send you a link



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Phil B.

04-07-2004 14:27:37




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 Re: Recommendations on Eng. Rebuild Kit? in reply to Phil B., 04-06-2004 22:29:06  
Thanks for the great info, guys.

Call me sadistic but I've heard so much about pulling these sleeves, I've just got to try it myself. I've got the .090" sleeves so I'll go the weld bead technique, in a couple of places first, then resort to making a jig. Just wouldn't be fun to have the shop do it... Of course, I have this confidence since I have a spare block...

And yes, the manual has been read, cover to cover, several times now. I'm looking for the stuff they left out :-)

Phil B.

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Scott From GA

04-07-2004 13:10:42




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 Re: Recommendations on Eng. Rebuild Kit? in reply to Phil B., 04-06-2004 22:29:06  
Buy the whole kit! you will come out alot cheaper! That is if you need a complete rebuilt. I went with TISCO. Pistons, rings, sleves, belt, plugs, oil pump kit, gasketset, valves, springs, guides --everything !! cost around $450.00. Have a Machine shop put your sleves in. I got the old one taken out and the new ones put in for $40.00 Cheap!! Have your crank ground BEFORE you order your rebuild kit. Mine cost $75 to have ground. The dealer will want to know what your tolerances are for your mains and rod bearings. Also take your time. Make sure you get plenty of bearing lube and plastic-gauge -available at most autoparts stores. Also as we all know Dell has mentioned many many times BUY THE BOOK!! The manual is cheap and loaded with alot of good information. Another suggestion after you by the book take it by a print shop, have them cut the spine off the book then go to an office supply store and buy clear plastic carriers, insert each page into a carrier and place into a three ring binder. It will last alot longer. --No greese - on the pages.

I hope to finish my 52 8n next month. The engine is completly done - now I'm working on rust, sheetmetal and painting.

Good luck!

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Jim J

04-07-2004 07:41:06




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 Re: Recommendations on Eng. Rebuild Kit? in reply to Phil B., 04-06-2004 22:29:06  
Send me a email and I will send you some information on some kits.



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Jeb2N

04-07-2004 03:34:13




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 Re: Recommendations on Eng. Rebuild Kit? in reply to Phil B., 04-06-2004 22:29:06  
If you are going to do the sleeving yourself, you're going to have to build a sleeve puller. I would rather have the machine shop press the old sleeves out while they have it. Pressing in the new sleeves is much easier than removing the old ones, so let them take care of that or you'll have a special one-time use tool that you don't need.

90% of the time, the cam is fine. Even though there are NO bearings and NO bushings, the suckers just don't wear out!! It defies engineering principles. The biggest thing is you'll need the machine shop to examine your crank and determine if it needs polishing or grinding so you'll know what size bearings to order. Kits are sold with different sized bearings. Have them mic or blueprint the engine and tell you what you need. May also want to carry the flywheel to them to have it resurfaced while they're at it.

I normally don't mess with the oil pump unless the tube is loose or I know from earlier operation that it was having problems. A good test is to prim the pump with oil or MMO and turn the gear with your finger. If you can feel suction on the pickup tube with your finger, the pump is most likely good and I wouldn't bother paying the $80 for the reamer and gears to rebuild it. Just be super carefull with that thing so as not to hit the pickup tube and crack the soldering which is very fragile.

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