Welcome! Please use the navigational links to explore our website.
PartsASAP LogoCompany Logo Auction Link (800) 853-2651

Shop Now

   Allis Chalmers Case Farmall IH Ford 8N,9N,2N Ford
   Ferguson John Deere Massey Ferguson Minn. Moline Oliver

Ford 9N, 2N & 8N Discussion Forum
:

Message for Zane Sherman

Welcome Guest, Log in or Register
Author 
Sam

04-25-2004 10:02:37




Report to Moderator

Well Zane I broke my 8n into three parts and took out all the gears. Now my problem is I can't get any of the bearings off. Since they have probably been on there since 1948 I can see why. I tried to pull one of them off with a gear puller, but wound up tearing the bearing up.
Any idea on what I should do, short of taking it to a real mechanic. I'm trying to do this job all by myself, just to see if I can. Many thanks for your help.

[Log in to Reply]   [No Email]
Sam

04-27-2004 07:26:47




Report to Moderator
 Re: Message for Zane Sherman in reply to Sam, 04-25-2004 10:02:37  
With all your help I finally got those gears off. This has turned out to be quite a job. I now need to order 2nd gear, 2nd countershaft gear and a countershaft. According to the catalogs I am looking at, and the internet sites.
The second gear is supposed to have 56 teeth, which mine has. The 2nd countershaft gear is supposed to have 17 teeth. My old one has l8 teeth. HAVE I GOT A PROBLEM???? Also the prices range from $226 at Farm and Country to $466 at the local Ford New Holland dealer. Quite a difference wouldn't you say?? Maybe the quality is different. Any ideas? Thanks for your help

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
ZANE

04-25-2004 18:33:45




Report to Moderator
 Re: Message for Zane Sherman in reply to Sam, 04-25-2004 10:02:37  
Bill is absolutely right on how to get the bearings off the shaft. Drop it hard on the end and the weitht of the gears will drive it off.

Be sure to take a couple of pictures of both shaft set ups before you take it apart too if you don't have a good manual with the sequence for the gears shown clearly. Don't depend on your memory.

I have alway used the cutting torch to remove those bearings that seem to have no good way to pull them. Especially if I am going to replace them anyway. Just burn off the roller or ball cage and then cut the bearing to the shaft with the torch. If you can use a torch good you can avoid cutting the shaft. An acetylene torch does not like to cut into a second layer of metal and this helps avoid cutting into the shaft etc.

Zane

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Bill Wilson

04-25-2004 17:20:37




Report to Moderator
 Re: Message for Zane Sherman in reply to Sam, 04-25-2004 10:02:37  
If you'll take your shaft with all the gears and bearings on it and drop it shaft end first about a foot on concrete in the direction the bearings come off, they will after about the second or third drop. you dont' have to let go when it drops; just hold on. A little practice will make it work everytime and save you all that heating stuff. Be sure you have a master parts manual so you can put it all back right. If you don't put it back right it will not go in your tranny housing. Its more simple than it looks. Good N-ing.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Joe (IN)

04-25-2004 16:00:56




Report to Moderator
 Re: Message for Zane Sherman in reply to Sam, 04-25-2004 10:02:37  
Sam, all of your bearings are pressed on and chances are just about zilch that you'll ever get any of them off with a common garden variety puller. Your best bet is to take the shafts in to a local machine shop along with the new bearings and have them remove the old ones and put the new ones on. They'll have a set of jigs and what not especially for this purpose. There are some things that us home mechanics just can't conceivably equip ourselves for. If you're really determined to do it yourself, you'll have to have an acetylene torch and understand that you WILL destroy the bearings in the process. Cut, bash or pry the cage off the bearing and get it and all the rollers out of your way. Heat the internal race until it's cherry red and sharply rap the shaft on a hard surface with a downward motion. It should just fall off. I really recommend the machine shop route, though. It won't cost much and the risk of further damage is much, much less.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
[Options]  [Printer Friendly]  [Posting Help]  [Return to Forum]   [Log in to Reply]

Hop to:


TRACTOR PARTS TRACTOR MANUALS
We sell tractor parts!  We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]

Home  |  Forums


Copyright © 1997-2023 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy

TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters

Website Accessibility Policy