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Ray..... ...generally speaking, iff'n yer 12 volt alternator is the deceptively desireable 1-wire, the P-1/P-2 slip-on terminals will be covered with a rubber plug. I don't like 1-wire alternators because you haffta jazz yer cold engine to 1800 rpms to start it charging. Once charging, it'll charge right down to 500 rpms idle speed. 3-wire alternators start charging at about 500 rpms. The usual set-up for a 3-wire alternator is to tie the P-2 remote sense directly to the BIG BATT STUD. P-1 is called the switched excite from the ignition switch BUT CAUTION; you need to "isolate" the P-1 so the internal volts don't feedback to the ignition switch terminal that also has the coil "ON" wire 'cuz you'll never beable to turn yer engine off. GM/Chevy uses an "idiot-lite" scheme to isolate the P-1 terminal. Many converters use a trailer clearance light with self-attached wires for the idiot light effect. You don't haffta mount the light so you can see it iff'n you don't want. This is only 1 of 7 ways that I know how to solve this problem so you can turn yer engine OFF. Yes, yer RESISTOR is supposed to be HOT, burnie-burnie. I'm gonna assume you realize that yer frontmount distributor points are best gapped 0.015" on yer kitchen table? New points are known to slip closed because the #8-32 x 3/16" screw threads imperceptively wear and won't hold. Ittza 2-bolt 15 minute finnagle to remove yer distributor which is driven by an "off-set tang" scheme so you can't re-installitt incorrectly outta time. Also, gently stretch yer coil springy-thingy for more certain contact. HTH..... ..Dell, a 12 volt advocate for the right reasons That said, I haven't found the right reason for my eazy starting 6 volt '52 8N, and I know how to do it right the 1st-time.
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