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Ford 9N, 2N & 8N Discussion Forum
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'47 2N Warm Start Difficulties

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Reid

06-08-2004 22:34:30




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What dumb thing am I not doing? Tractor is stock 6V (except previous owner disconnected oilbath precleaner, installed a foam air filter on manifold very near carb). Beast starts instantly when cold w/ a whiff of starter fluid, never stumbles even on those first few revs. Idles, runs well under load, doesn't get hot, no blue/black smoke, etc. Difficulty is starting when it's warmed up. It seems to want another whiff of starter fluid, but that can't be the cowboy way. Set me straight guys on what to check. How strong should spark be on a 6V engine under cranking conditions?

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Upper Peninsula, Mi

06-09-2004 11:38:02




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 Re: '47 2N Warm Start Difficulties in reply to Reid, 06-08-2004 22:34:30  
Reid. Sounds like you are using the starter fluid in place of the choke. I have to choke both my 9N's when starting even when they are warm.Try not using the starter fluid and only the choke and see what happens. You could also have a leak around the manifold that necessitates you using the fluid. Good luck. Ron



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Thanks guys for the homew

06-09-2004 09:53:22




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 Re: '47 2N Warm Start Difficulties in reply to Reid, 06-08-2004 22:34:30  
Thanks guys for the rec's, especially re how exactly to see if spark is up to snuff. Will report back if I learn anything unusual. - Reid



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Joe (IN)

06-09-2004 00:12:26




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 Re: '47 2N Warm Start Difficulties in reply to Reid, 06-08-2004 22:34:30  
Your ignition spark as seen at the plugs should be a heavy blue snap no matter what the engine temperature is. I weak, lazy, yellow click ain't gonna get it. If it's strong cold and weak hot, replace the coil.

As for the starter fluid, well, if Henry thought you needed it to get his tractor started, he'd have put a can in the toolbox before it left the factory. Throw that crap away. I only use that stuff for troubleshooting, my 'ole diesel Case when it's real cold out, and dad's POS '57 Chevy grain truck that loses it's fuel prime if it sits for more than a couple days. There are 5 N's and a 600 around our place and I've NEVER had to use starter fluid to get one kicking. The real workers that see frequent action and are kept in good tune won't even want choked. If your ingition is strong and you can't get her running without that can of piston ventilator, then your carb is screwed up. Have a look.

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Dan

06-09-2004 07:10:52




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 Re: Re: '47 2N Warm Start Difficulties in reply to Joe (IN), 06-09-2004 00:12:26  
While I do agree with you that a good tuned tractor does not NEED starting fluid - there are merits to having it around the shop. After a tear down and first starting attempt, many times you run down your battery trying to get it back on it's feet while making the thousands of adjustments on timing, carb, points, etc. Starting fluid helps immensely in this area. Also, don't forget the value it brings in determining if your no-startin' N has fuel or electrical issues. It is always the first step I take in troubleshooting this type of problem. Starting fluid has it's value in my shop, and I would not "throw that crap away" :)

Respectfully,
Dan

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Dell (WA)

06-09-2004 00:05:11




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 Re: '47 2N Warm Start Difficulties in reply to Reid, 06-08-2004 22:34:30  
Reid..... ..itz'chur sparkies. Your frontmount ignition coil gitts hot has melted its insulative tars and shorted out some of its windings. When cold, the tar insulates and you gitt strong enuff sparkies for starting.

I make any old sparkie plug into a "calibrated" sparkie tester by bending the side electrode outward to a full 3/16" gap (instead of 0.025) and clamp the tester to a bolt. Iff'n I can't draw a snapping blue sparkie while crankin', BAD SPARKIES.

There is some merit to the claim that continual usage of ether quick start will make yer engine an ether addict. Sumptin ta tink'bout.

Iff'n yer constantly having to use quick start, you might be nearing "rebuild/overhaul" time. I'd suggest you do the dreaded "compression test". Ford specs: 90 psi min (dry). Do 5 puffs min and ritter down. Then squirt about 1oz of oil down the sparkie hole to seal the rings and do 'nutter' "wet" compression test. Writter down.

The change in compression values will be a BIG CLUE to the health of yer engine. Less than 10psi, healthy engine; 20psi, well used engine; more than 30psi, very tired engine and ether is a crutch that is just delaying the eventual need of rebuilding; NO change in psi, burned exhaust valves..... ....respectfully, Dell

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