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Off topic, but related to post below

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9N'er

02-27-2001 04:48:38




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I found the Steel Pre-Fab discussion below of interest. I am in the design and search process to construct a 26x52 shop building. I now have a decent design on paper; stick framed 2x6, full insulation, attic trusses, poured slab with frost walls etc. etc. Front porch with overhang etc.

I would be interested to learn of any other options that may provide the shop building I desire, but perhaps at lower cost. I am located on a backroad that the State determined to be one of those "scenic routes."

Because of that, the building should have a nice look to it, with trim, windows, etc, that reflects a traditional style.

Does anyone have other links, or designs that may prove to be a more cost affordable design option? I would appreciate it. Building to be used solely for tractor repair, and furniture/cabinetmaking (one area dedicated to mechanical work.) Upstairs overhead storage.

Also, any thoughts or considerations about shop design would be appreciated: like: "Oh, when I built mine, I wish I had done this" or, "if I was to do it over again...I would..." thank you for your patience. 9N'er

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Dumb Logger

02-28-2001 18:20:21




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 Re: off topic, but related to post below in reply to 9N'er, 02-27-2001 04:48:38  
9nr-I had a 36x48 pole barn put up 3 yrs ago. It has a full slab, 14' eaves w/2' overhang, and full gutters.Also has 3 12x14 sliding doors and 1 walk in door. Payed 16,000.00 for the whole thing. Could have saved at least half of that had i done it myself, but I have been building my house for ten yrs. and I wanted to use the barn in this lifetime. Things I would have done different are; put pipe in floor to run hot water thru, should have gone bigger at least 36x60, and I should have had one built ten years ago to live in. Oh yeah, later on I aquired a bridge crane, no way to put that in there now. If you are thinking of one of them now is the time to figure for it. Also I would have liked a pit for service work. hth

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8N101225

02-28-2001 03:31:08




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 Re: off topic, but related to post below in reply to 9N'er, 02-27-2001 04:48:38  
Thoughts on the design:

Interior height should be at least 2' more than you think you'll need. Don't get too big, it'll be harder to heat.

Run all services in through the slab. Looks better from the road. Run an extra "Big O" in before the slab is poured just in case.

For the wood shop - design the dust collection system now even if you don't install it 'till later. You may want to run the lines in the slab.

Electrical service should be 60 amp minimum for wood shop (Table saw + dust collector = 30A).

Good Luck

ct

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tlak

02-28-2001 06:31:47




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 Re: Re: off topic, but related to post below in reply to 8N101225, 02-28-2001 03:31:08  
Whats a Big O"? Some other things might be to rough in for a bathroom and where ever he might want water. Also on the electrical- cable and phones.



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8N101225

02-28-2001 11:16:08




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 Re: Re: Re: off topic, but related to post below in reply to tlak, 02-28-2001 06:31:47  
"Big O" is a 4" ribbed plastic pipe. Available perforated (for foundation drainage), solid, and red line for burying cable. The red line comes with a rope inside to fish the cable.

I don't know what it's called in the US.



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tlak

02-28-2001 13:15:06




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: off topic, but related to post below in reply to 8N101225, 02-28-2001 11:16:08  
Most of the in slab piping conduit is just regular white pvc. The pipe your talking about is common prerimeter slab drainage. Common to me anyway. What country are you in?



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Andy MN

02-27-2001 17:48:38




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 Re: off topic, but related to post below in reply to 9N'er, 02-27-2001 04:48:38  
Try www.archtechnology.com . They make affordable structures that are used on the south pole because they are so strong.



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Bama Red

02-27-2001 14:04:13




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 Re: off topic, but related to post below in reply to 9N'er, 02-27-2001 04:48:38  
Try this site also:

http://www.ag.ndsu.nodak.edu/abeng/plans/MACHINE.htm



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Charlie in TX

02-27-2001 13:59:38




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 Re: off topic, but related to post below in reply to 9N'er, 02-27-2001 04:48:38  
I live in an area where there are no building codes or restrictions so I don't know if the following applies. Some things to consider.

don't use 29ga metal, use 26ga. With 26 you can space the blocking between the trusses 6' and still walk on it. If you are a big boy like me, 6'4" 270lbs, they recommend you not walk on 29.

If you use a steel roof, don't pitch more than 4-12. Any moisture on the 4-12 and you will leave meat(your meat) on the screw heads all the way down. My buddy used a 6-12. It was scarry when it was dry.

If you can't use steel and must use a lap siding, I would use Hardi-plank. It is a concrete siding made to look like wood. It doesn't look quite as good as wood when you put it up, but it will never get any uglier. Wood will require frequent maintaince to keep its look, hardi doesn't.

Build a leanto. It will give you a place to put your tractor when it is too dirty to go in the barn but no time to clean. Additionally it will give you a place to keep your plow, hog and box blade without bringing in the dirt.

Do as much of it yourself as you can. It gives you a similar fealing as when you get your tractor working after it has been broke for a while, you will have a much fatter wallet and you will have a better barn.

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tlak

02-27-2001 13:08:41




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 Re: off topic, but related to post below in reply to 9N'er, 02-27-2001 04:48:38  
Build as cheap of metal building that you can, then put a false front on it for whatever design to sute(sp) the state and maybe privatcy fencing to hide the sides.. In progressive farmer mag one company list a 24X40X10 building for $4000.



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skip

02-27-2001 08:32:33




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 Re: off topic, but related to post below in reply to 9N'er, 02-27-2001 04:48:38  
9ner I have a 26 x 42 built in MA.14 years ago.Steel framed w/salvaged steel from chemical plant logoon roof collaped because of snow load, i worked a few months welding/ pre cutting rough cut pine for spanes between steel 256 of these 96 them,i carridge bolted wood to steel,then called in all my favors 8 guys, fri night welding truck & big wrecker w/crane. sat,air nailers throwing lumber for roof/walls.sun alum.sheeting w/rubber grommet nails roof walls lots of details to finish by me alum. facia,vinyl soffit.Doors front 14 x14, rear 10x10 garage is drive through,one 4'walk-in,use is for doing off chasis resto on 55-57 chebies.Home built bridge crane,height 16/18'.Foundation was poured before construction 40 yds ,55 gallon drums full of cement under each stantion with floor w/wire ,fastest $ i ever spent,and about the hardest day i can remember. Then rain to mess up finish on concrete,hope this gives you some ideas i did this when i was bit younger not sure i could pull it off or want to take it on now.We are neighbors i got a camp on 115 in twin w /8n that earns her keep ,I snowmobile to gorham often If you get to ma,your welcome to check it out.Just herd off accident in jefferson snow machine and grooomer.All our toys are dangerous ,having trouble with home email tractors1@msn.com I don't do to much on putters. take care Skip

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Al English

02-27-2001 09:00:30




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 Re: Re: off topic, but related to post below in reply to skip, 02-27-2001 08:32:33  
Hi skip, Sounds like you have a great building. I met a guy in my area(SE Mich) that built a beautiful, well thought out and well executed building using fabricated steel beams and archeticural panels he salvaged from a job he was on. He used it to garage and repair the heavy equipmant he ran. The building was so overbuilt he could have parked the equipment ON the building rather than in it. Never-the-less, a couple years after he built it the township made him tear it down. It's construction was not "conventional" and there were no prints, structural calculations, or stamped architects drawings. Anyone could see the building would outlast everyone alive today, but building departments have been sued so many times they have to cover themselves. I've heard there are still a few places left where as long as it doesn't smell too bad or hurt anyone you can still do pretty much whatever you want. But those days are pretty much gone around here...Al English

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bg

02-27-2001 06:11:04




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 Re: off topic, but related to post below in reply to 9N'er, 02-27-2001 04:48:38  
I'm drawing up a 24 x 36 modular pole barn right now. Unless you really want to spend the money on stick-framed with 2 x 6, pole barn construction is more cost-effective and flexible and can be built in modules. You can do the exterior any way you want. There is a site with a whole bunch of good barn plans that have a traditional look. They can be built either post-and-frame or framed conventionally. I don't have the url handy, but do a Google or AltaVista search for barn plans. An alternative may be to use SIPS for your insulated areas.

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here's a url...bg

02-27-2001 06:14:07




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 Re: Re: off topic, but related to post below in reply to bg, 02-27-2001 06:11:04  



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Al English

02-27-2001 05:51:17




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 Re: off topic, but related to post below in reply to 9N'er, 02-27-2001 04:48:38  
Hi 9N'er, Pole buildings are a relatively durable and inexpensive way to enclose a lot of space with no interior supports. Most pole buildings all have the same 4/12 roof pitch with panel siding look, but that's only because it's the cheapest way of getting the job done. The exterior of a pole building can be styled, finished, and trimmed in pretty much any way you can dream up. Good luck...Al English

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