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Ford 9N, 2N & 8N Discussion Forum
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OT - Vinyl Floor

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Peanut

08-24-2004 07:24:21




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I have a vinyl floor in a bathroom and I need to do a little work to the subfloor underneath. I am trying to figure out if I should rip up the entire floor or cut out only where I need to work. My main question is: Does a pieced vinyl floor last as long as one piece? I would tend to think that a joint is a wonderful place for moisture to gather and get to the subfloor ... being a bathroom.

I realize this is way off topic but am curious to know if anyone has had success with a pieced vinyl floor over the long run. Thanks.

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hvw

08-24-2004 10:25:55




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 Re: OT - Vinyl Floor in reply to Peanut, 08-24-2004 07:24:21  
Or hardi board.



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FC

08-24-2004 08:51:06




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 Re: OT - Vinyl Floor in reply to Peanut, 08-24-2004 07:24:21  
Like others have said you can buy material to level the floor. I had a small area under a water heater which leaked and had lifted the plywood floor some. I cheated, and was able to remove (carefully) the top layer of veneer which just happened to amount to 1/8 inch thickness. I was able to get 1/8 inch thick material and nail this down and use a mixed material to fill in some of the joint areas. Worked, but I don't know how it held up as I sold the house. When I built my house, I did not use any vinyl. I laid all ceramic tile, in the kitchen, dining area, utility room, and bathrooms. Cost more, but hopefully it will never have to be replaced which would be cheaper in the long run.

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Dave-WI

08-24-2004 07:52:32




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 Re: OT - Vinyl Floor in reply to Peanut, 08-24-2004 07:24:21  
I'd patch the subfloor and use leveling compound to fill the seam. Then make a paper template of the bathroom using something like red rosin paper. then lay the template on the one-piece vinyl floor and trace. Cut it and viola...good to go. There is a techinque to doing the template to make it go quick and easy check out he Anderson Flooring web site I'm sure its outlined in great detail there. Basically you tape down the paper to the subfloor but keep it about 1" from the walls. Then use a metal ruler to follow the walls, making a line on the paper about 2" in from all the walls. Then do the reverse on the vinyl and you get an exact fitting piece of flooring. Sorry, its hard to explain in writting, but it works slick and is very easy. It'll look like a pro insatlled it.

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Eric ATL

08-24-2004 07:43:35




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 Re: OT - Vinyl Floor in reply to Peanut, 08-24-2004 07:24:21  
Peanut, I gotta throw in my 2 cents. I would not recommend a vinyl tile floor in a bathroom. You're on the right track. The dirt, moisture, mildew that can plague the seams will have it looking poor in no time. The only place we've had good luck with vinyl tiles is in the basement (a very dry basement) in a room that sees little traffic. I would strip the old floor. Not a fun project especially if they did a good job of gluing it down. After you've made your repairs to the subfloor put down a leveling media. Make sure it's good and level then glue down your new vinyl. Be careful not to use too much glue. If you do it will get dents or pits in it real easy. This would be a good time to decide if you want real tile. This would involve putting down that concrete underlayment. I can't for the life of me remember what it's called but I'm sure I will as soon as I post this. Another thing about pieceing vinyl in. You will not be able to match the color. Hope to help. Eric

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Dave-WI

08-24-2004 07:56:57




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 Re: OT - Vinyl Floor in reply to Eric ATL, 08-24-2004 07:43:35  
Cement backer board = Durarock brand



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Ramon - the old man

08-24-2004 07:40:53




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 Re: OT - Vinyl Floor in reply to Peanut, 08-24-2004 07:24:21  
If the area is not too large, you can use a new same thickness patch and glue & screw it back in place on the subfloor. You can buy a wood patch material to putty up the final joint if you have one. Do not piece the vinyl floor, as the moisture will eventually force the seam to pull apart.



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