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8N is killin me... part 2

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8NROOKIE

09-04-2004 16:08:56




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Hi guys, First I want to say this site is great. Thanks for all the advice from my first post.Now to the history..bought an 8n this spring. My first tractor.Ran,stalled,ran,stalled. Had some rust in the tank, so I had it cleaned and coated. Also replaced the sediment unit and gas line.Since I had it tore apart, I gave it the full tune up..plugs, points, condenser,rotor, cap, and even replaced the coil.[okay, didnt replace the plug wires, thats next] Fired right up and ran for about 15 minutes till I shut her down. I was pumped up and looked forward to putting her to work 2 days later.Got up to the cabin and she started right up. Hooked up the plow and turned dirt for about 5 minutes when she started sputtering and stalled.Now it wont start at all. So I tore apart the carb and cleaned it up real nice and relaced the infamous ignition switch. Still nothing.Turns over but no spark! I cant replace much more. What do you think? Tractor has the 6V system.Thanks in advance.....

Rookie

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8NROOKIE

09-09-2004 18:33:02




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 Re: 8N is killin me... part 2 in reply to 8NROOKIE, 09-04-2004 16:08:56  
Thanks for all the info. guys.After trying everything I could, I called in a local tractor expert. Took him a short time to find the culprit. Bad wiring harness.Runs like a champ now, and with everything I replaced, it should be good for a long time!

Rookie



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ZANE

09-05-2004 06:26:48




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 Re: 8N is killin me... part 2 in reply to 8NROOKIE, 09-04-2004 16:08:56  

IGNITION ON THE FRONT MOUNTED DISTRIBUTOR.

If you think it may be electrical you should start with the ignition switch and go all the way through the distributor and coil one thing at the time.

You can isolate the ignition switch by using a sewing pin to pierce through the two leads going to the ignition switch. Be careful not to let the pin make contact with anything metal while doing this. If this makes the trouble go away, replace the switch.

Next is the ignition resistor. Do not try to bypass the resistor. To do so may fry the coil and points etc and just make more trouble. If you find that the ignition resistor has been bypassed then you can assume that the coil is shot. If you have a volt meter connect it at the little post on the coil and turn the engine until the points are closed and take a reading. It should read somewhere in the neighborhood of 3 or 4 volts. If it only reads 2 or less you should replace the resistor. Never bypass the resistor!
If you don’t have a volt meter, you can also take the wire off the coil post where the current enters from the resistor and strike the wire on something metal on the tractor and observe the spark. It should be easily seen.

There is an insulator on the distributor plate where the condenser wire and the points spring are attached. It looks like a small piece of cardboard. This insulator is sometimes the culprit if it allows the current to go to ground because it is shorted to ground. Be especially careful to inspect this insulator for grounding.

You could have a bad set of ignition points in the distributor and the only way to find out is to remove the distributor from the engine by removing the distributor cap and the wire coming to the coil from the resistor and then removing the two mounting bolts. If the points are not correctly set to the right opening measurement this could be the trouble. Especially if they are just barely opening. Set the points to .015.

If the points are pitted or corroded at all replace them. If it has been a long time since the points have been replaced then replace them. Have a set on hand before you remove the distributor from the engine. Also replace the condenser. The condenser is not as likely as the points to be bad but now is the time to replace it.

If after testing everything and replacing the points and condenser you still have the same problem it may be that the coil is breaking down when it heats up. The only way to fix this is to replace the coil.

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Dave OH

09-04-2004 21:31:05




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 Re: 8N is killin me... part 2 in reply to 8NROOKIE, 09-04-2004 16:08:56  
After you follow Dells advice, when you buy the ignition wires make sure they are copper core tractor wires NOT auto noise suppresion wires.
Dave OH



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CAT FIXER

09-04-2004 18:50:00




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 Re: 8N is killin me... part 2 in reply to 8NROOKIE, 09-04-2004 16:08:56  
Try this troubleshooting procedure BEFORE you start buying parts and tinkering with stuff 1.Think about what was happening when the problem started
2.Check all of the easy stuff first like fuel on in tank etc
3.Make a list of all the possible causes of the problem BEFORE you buy parts or start tearing stuff down or adjusting the carb or anything else
4. eleminate what is not the problem
5.Start troubleshooting systematicly easiest things firstand you will find the problem faster with a lot less aggrivation

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Dell (WA)

09-04-2004 18:09:01




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 Re: 8N is killin me... part 2 in reply to 8NROOKIE, 09-04-2004 16:08:56  
Rookie..... ...ya made a common rookie mistake. Did an electrical tune-up and it quits on you so you assume its yer carb and start diddleing and then you admit you don't have enny sparkies. NOTCHUR CARB ROOKIE!!! Its yer sparkies!!!

You do know its a 2-bolt, 15-minute job to remove your squarecan ignition distributor so you can work on it on your kitchen table, don't you? Just un-snap yer 4-nipple crabcap and unbolter. Yer distributor is driven by an OFF-SET TANG scheme and only installs 1-WAY. Just finger start the 2-bolts and then gently turn your distributor rotor until it drops into the off-set groove. Then finish tightening it up. Piece of cake, eh?

CHECK YOUR POINTS GAP = 0.015". Its very common for new points to slip closed and loose your sparkies. The #8-32x3/16 nickle plated brass screw threads get worn and won't hold. Its something that is not intuitively obvious, but is definitely a problem causer..... .....respectfully, Dell the self-appointed sparkie-meister

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Rob

09-04-2004 16:23:59




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 Re: 8N is killin me... part 2 in reply to 8NROOKIE, 09-04-2004 16:08:56  
Start with, short around the ignition switch and PROVE it isn't the problem. You can do that easily right there on the terminal block especially if you have an alligator equiped jumper wire but that is not required.
You've pretty much gone as far as you can go swapping parts and now you're just going to have to troubleshoot that thing. There is a fine, simple troubleshooting section in the Ford 8N Operator's manual (available at Ford/New Holland) and you don't even need a meter. It's not comprehensive in that you might need to run the distributor in to have someone check it out if it comes to that but it will tell you just where your problem is located. Then, you can get advise on troubleshooting something specific like the distributor on this board.

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