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8n charging problem

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Andy Gordon

09-07-2004 09:34:55




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Please forgive the windy post, but here goes…
I have a ’52 8n that was converted to 12 volts several years ago with a kit consisting of a Delco alternator, coil, voltmeter, and wiring harness. For quite a while, it ran great – popped right over immediately, started with no choke except when it was very cold outside and consistently showed charging at 12-14 volts while running. This past spring, when I went out to start it for the first time, I found the battery dead (as expected) and all the cells nearly dry (I had never checked them). I topped the battery up with distilled water and jumped the tractor to get it going. Through the summer, I noticed that the starting was becoming sluggish to the point where you have to use the choke all the time, the starter seems to be “lugging down” before the motor catches, and the voltmeter shows charging at around 10-11 volts. I put all this down to the battery problem and ignored the starting problems in hopes that they would magically go away…
This past weekend, it reached the point where the tractor wouldn’t start, so I finally replaced the battery. Things ran well for one day (several hours of light brush hogging), although the voltmeter still showed the charge to be slightly less than 12 volts. The next day, after hauling one load of wood down form the back 40, the tractor refused to start – would only give a short grind, and then only a click, even when jumped. In the course of checking things I discovered that the diode that came in the 12 volt kit appears to have been burned out at some point. The tractor runs fine if you can roll it to get it started.

Any ideas on where to begin trouble shooting or what I may have toasted?

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MikeT

09-07-2004 11:23:57




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 Re: 8n charging problem in reply to Andy Gordon, 09-07-2004 09:34:55  
Another option is to replace the ignition switch with one that has a 3rd terminal labelled as ACC. Connect P1 on the alternator to that terminal.



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Bob

09-07-2004 11:14:59




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 Re: 8n charging problem in reply to Andy Gordon, 09-07-2004 09:34:55  
Have the alternator tested and repaired, if necessary, and replace the diode. I use two 2.5 Amp @ 1000 PIV diodes in parallel, (cathode ((BANDED)) ends toward the alternator #1 terminal). (ECG-125 is one generic number.)

I have been told this is "overkill" on the diode ratings, but I have rarely, if ever seen this setup fail, while a single diode will occasionally fail.

Also, there is nothing wrong with using a pilot light, mounted in the dash, as an "idiot light", or a "side marker light" mounted out of sight under the hood somewhere, as a resistor in the "excite circuit" rather that a diode. A 194 lamp draws the correct amount of current to allow the alternator to "excite".

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souNdguy

09-07-2004 18:56:21




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 Re: 8n charging problem in reply to Bob, 09-07-2004 11:14:59  
I completely agree with Bob.. that second diode is a great safety net.. diodes almost never fail by shorting.. but instead by opening. With 2 in parallel, each is only carrying half the load, and in the even one failed.. the other would still allow the system to function.

You state 'charging at "10-11v"

Hopefully you know that that means that no charging is going on. That volt meter is merely monitoring system voltage. A normal charged 12v battery sits around 12.5 or so, and can only be charged by a voltage above the battery voltage. Common charge potential from an alternator is between 13.8 and 14.7 v. If your voltmeter doesn't show 13+ votls... it ain't charging.

That half dead dried out battery probably isn't long forthis world either.

Get a new battery.. rework that p1 exciter, and get the alternator tested.

Soundguy

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